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Rasmussen Crack is located between Hummingbird Crack and Turkey's Delight on an inset wall on the left side of the Turkey Tail. A pine tree stands at the base of the route, access the climb from the left side of this tree.
Pull up and right through a blocky section and into the thin crack above. This continues straight up and then arches left. Follow the crack until it is possible to hand traverse left along a rail reaching a hand sized crack (#2 Camalot), climb this for a couple moves and move left onto a ledge with a fixed anchor. This climb is thin and sustained and excellent. It ends up being more of a face climb than a crack as the crack gets pretty small and there are some great edges on the face.
This gets two stars for rock and moves and pro, but it's short and the crack dies before becoming a classic. 70 feet is a guess. A 60 meter rope easily made the rappel from the anchor, a 50m probably would as well. Watch the dead tree when tossing your rope, it's a potential snag.
This is a thin crack that protects well with TCUs and RPs. Bring a few medium-sized cams for the first 20 feet.
Warming up on Rasmussen's Crack.
CM following the crack.
Most people hand traverse this section but walking...
The Moai watch silently as Scott begins the traver...
|Comments on Rasmussen Crack
|By Matt Juth|
Sep 7, 2004
After climbing Rasmussen's, you can TR the excellent face left of the start. It joins the crack after the arc near the top. I call it Rasmussen's face. The face felt like 10/10+.
Oct 18, 2004
I'm embarrassed to admit I don't recall the name of the first ascentionist, but I do remember a story of that FA. It may be apocryphal, but even if it is, it's pretty cool. Supposedly the climb was first done without RPs (because they hadn't been invented yet) let alone TCUs, and in hiking boots (maybe EBs?) a couple of sizes too large. Impressive. Neat climb, too. Thanks, whoever you are!Verification and/or clarification are welcome.
Oct 9, 2005
Cool reaches past blank spots in crack - great movement.
Dec 18, 2006
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Was this formerly called "Rasty Crack"??
I have the old Steve Cheyney book "For Turkeys Only" and, it seems
that's what he calls this route.
|By D. Shaw|
Aug 2, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
I'd love to know if Robbie Baker named this route, as he was one of the original South Platte guys, and I went to high school with him (sort of!) and we knew a gal named Nancy R. Anyway, I would say that all the routes on Turkey Tail are under-rated by modern standards, including this one. The crux of this is harder than any 10b I've ever done. But whatever - you certainly get your money's worth. Word to those who want to rap after pitch 1 - look hard to the left of the corner you join. The rap anchors are hidden now by some vegetation, so we missed it. They are just left and below the large block with the bush under it.
|By Jay Eggleston|
May 26, 2010
This one is very sustained throughout its length.
|By Phil Lauffen|
Jun 9, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
This is a great little climb. I'd say the beginning, where you essentially have to do a pull up on a hand jam was the crux. I got a few decent no hands rests in after. From each of these stances it was easy to place bomb-proof gear. No way this is PG-13.
If your second is shaky on 10, then I wouldn't place a piece till you can sling the large chockstone/boulder ~20 ft above the traverse. If you just did the crack below, you will be fine doing the 5.7 crack after the traverse. If you place a piece in the 5.7 crack and your second falls after unclipping the piton, they will be in a world of hurt.
Nov 3, 2010
Howdy all! I climbed at Turkey quite a bit back in the early to mid-'80s and know a little of the history. Kurt Rasmussen did the FA, according to Steve Cheney. The way Steve told it, Kurt did it in vibram-soled hiking boots. This was definitely before RPs and cams, so I would guess the pro was Chouinard hexes and stoppers.
I haven't been to Turkey in a long time, but I have great memories of the place. Still one of my all-time favorite crags. Maybe I'll get back there.
Cheers to all Turkey aficionados! Keep on jammin'.
From: Golden, CO
Feb 18, 2013
I'd recommend bringing one (maybe 2) black Aliens if you've got 'em. Not required though.
Jun 4, 2013
Rasmussen Crack was done by Kurt Rasmussen in the early '70s, and Kurt lead it in an old pair of Vasque Kronhoffer style shoes that were blown out. Steve Cheyney called it Rasty Crack, because he didn't want climbs named after people in his book. He calls the wide crack to the right of it Hummingbird Way when it is really Snivley's crack after first ascent by Doug Snivley. Kurt lead it first try. No whiny red or pink points or sending it with postage or whatever.
Nov 12, 2013
Anyone noticed the bolted anchor sits in a detached block teetering on the edge of a ledge?