Rapture of the Steep 5.10
| 2,252 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | John Steiger, Rich Thompson, Don Gallagher 1977 |
| Season: | late Spring, Summer, early Fall |
| Submitted By: | Luke Bertelsen on Jul 4, 2008 |
| |
Jon moving his way towards the roof crux.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Follow the great hands to finger crack to a small roof. There are good jams to be found the whole way, but the only true crack moves are the fingerlocks leading to the roof. Great pro the entire way.
Pull the roof (don't fall here), clip a bolt and continue to the anchors. This is a must do for Mt. Lemmon. This climb would be a classic almost anywhere.
Location Prominent crack right of Swept Away if you are looking up at the face. You can't miss it.
Protection Hand and finger sized cams. A few finger sized nuts will serve you well too. Slings to equalize the very offset anchors at the top of the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: P1
|
Andy in the midst of perfect fingers locks. Yes, ...
|
TR setup on Rapture of the Steep
| | | |
| Comments on Rapture of the Steep |
|
By Luke Bertelsen
Jul 4, 2008
| This climb has a second pitch that I have never done. It's not much to look at compared to the first. |
By scott e. tarrant
From: Fort Collins
Jul 9, 2008
rating: 5.10c PG13
| purely and simply one of the best climbs of my life. |
By dcohn
May 19, 2009
| One of the nicest cracks on Lemmon. Great location too. Do most people turn the roof on p1 to the right of the big jug? Thats what I did, but I saw a small fixed nut to the left where the crack turns into a seam. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 19, 2009
| I think I stay a bit right turning the roof too but it has been a while since I was there. Did you do Warm & Free up to Rapture. If not, do it next time it makes for a lot of good climbing. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.10 PG13
| ditto eric - and also ditto eric on doing warm and free first. |
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 2, 2009
| Watch out for bats and their excrement in the crux, it gets kinda greasy...
Do the "Warm and Steep" linkup. What a fantastic day! |
By dcohn
Sep 27, 2009
| I saw the "nuts in opposition" placement on P2. It is not really required as I could place a micro cam and a #3 camalot in nearly the same spot. Maybe the nuts would work better, I dunno. That old rusted bolt ought to be replaced at some point. P2 is worth doing to avoid the scramble back up the gulley. |
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 5, 2012
rating: 5.10 PG13
| Contrary to some of these comments, I think you are missing out if you don't do the second pitch of this climb. It's steep, exposed, sustained, and spicy, and Neptune is an awesome formation to top out on. I thought it was the headiest pitch of the link-up, also probably as good as any pitch on Warm and Free. It seemed hard for 5.9. |
|
RSS Feed
7 more...
Slideshow
