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Neptune
Routes Sorted
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Agent Orange (with direct start) T 
Arc Of A Diver T 
Catch the Wave S 
Clip Tide S 
Cream of Belay T 
Endless Edge T 
Finding Guinness T 
Finding Nemo T 
Free Fall T 
Jaws T 
Jimmy Dean T 
Land Shark T 
Layback 'n Cruz T 
Ma'adim T 
Muscle Shoals S 
Naranja T 
Phillipino Fighting Fish T 
Prime Rib of RURP T 
Rapture of the Steep T 
Reef Stricken S 
Salty Dogs T 
Scimitar T 
Scuffle and Dust Cough T 
Shanadoo T 
Shanashee T 
Stop Making Sense  T 
Swept Away T 
Tide Me Over T 
Unfathomable T 
Visceral Pull T 
Warm and Free T 
Where Eaglets Dare T 

Rapture of the Steep 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Steiger, Rich Thompson, Don Gallagher 1977
Season: late Spring, Summer, early Fall
Page Views: 3,394
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Jul 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Russ W on pitch 1

Description 

Follow the great hands to finger crack to a small roof. There are good jams to be found the whole way, but the only true crack moves are the fingerlocks leading to the roof. Great pro the entire way.
Pull the roof (don't fall here), clip a bolt and continue to the anchors. This is a must do for Mt. Lemmon. This climb would be a classic almost anywhere.

Location 

Prominent crack right of Swept Away if you are looking up at the face. You can't miss it.

Protection 

Hand and finger sized cams. A few finger sized nuts will serve you well too. Slings to equalize the very offset anchors at the top of the first pitch.


Photos of Rapture of the Steep Slideshow Add Photo
P1
BETA PHOTO: P1
Jon moving his way towards the roof crux.
Jon moving his way towards the roof crux.
TR setup on Rapture of the Steep
TR setup on Rapture of the Steep
Andy in the midst of perfect fingers locks.  Yes, ...
Andy in the midst of perfect fingers locks. Yes, ...

Comments on Rapture of the Steep Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 8, 2015
By Luke Bertelsen
Jul 4, 2008

This climb has a second pitch that I have never done. It's not much to look at compared to the first.
By scott e. tarrant
From: Fort Collins
Jul 9, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

purely and simply one of the best climbs of my life.
By dcohn
May 19, 2009

One of the nicest cracks on Lemmon. Great location too. Do most people turn the roof on p1 to the right of the big jug? Thats what I did, but I saw a small fixed nut to the left where the crack turns into a seam.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 19, 2009

I think I stay a bit right turning the roof too but it has been a while since I was there. Did you do Warm & Free up to Rapture. If not, do it next time it makes for a lot of good climbing.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

ditto eric - and also ditto eric on doing warm and free first.
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 2, 2009

Watch out for bats and their excrement in the crux, it gets kinda greasy...

Do the "Warm and Steep" linkup. What a fantastic day!
By dcohn
Sep 27, 2009

I saw the "nuts in opposition" placement on P2. It is not really required as I could place a micro cam and a #3 camalot in nearly the same spot. Maybe the nuts would work better, I dunno. That old rusted bolt ought to be replaced at some point. P2 is worth doing to avoid the scramble back up the gulley.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 5, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Contrary to some of these comments, I think you are missing out if you don't do the second pitch of this climb. It's steep, exposed, sustained, and spicy, and Neptune is an awesome formation to top out on. I thought it was the headiest pitch of the link-up, also probably as good as any pitch on Warm and Free. It seemed hard for 5.9.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 7, 2014

"Pull the roof (don't fall here)"

does this mean the move isn't very well protected?
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 8, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

That's what was meant Jon, although there is a sneaky placement for a .75" cam that can offer better protection for the roof. :)
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 7, 2015

is the roof the crux of the first pitch?
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 8, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Jon, honestly I think you could make a case for the upper part of the finger crack, the traverse from the finger crack to the roof, or the roof itself. For me it was the traverse. The roof will probably be the crux for shorter people.

On the other hand, if you try to turn the roof out left where the fixed nut is (or was), like I did on my first time up this pitch, that will most definitely be the crux.

If people think this is too much beta I'll delete the comment and message Jon directly.
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