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Routes in East End of Rundle (EEOR)
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Alt-Left, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Eeyores Tail T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Generosity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Girls Lie T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Halfpipe, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Raptor S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Reprobate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0 PG13 |
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True Grit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 750 ft (227 m), 9 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | M. Whalen & D. Bartrom |
| Page Views: | 4,039 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Jones on Sep 8, 2015 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose |
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Description
Since this was in the old guidebook and Chris Perry has graciously accepted to share the beta (BUY HIS NEW BOOK, it's excellent! Beautifully made!). Here it is.
From the old "Banff Rock" Book, (c) Chris Perry:
This popular, multi-pitch sport route has some excellent climbing although the middle section is relatively easy and lacks interest. The climb is entirely protected by bolts and it makes a good introduction to the longer climbs. It begins up a small rib immediately left of the Fumbles gully and climbs a wide, open corner system in the upper part of the cliff (see photograph in the EEOR section).
Start on the left-hand side of the scree cone below the Fumbles gully to the right of a small rib. The first pitch is the crux and can be climbed either by moving directly over the bulge or by making a steep move left and down slightly from the bolt to gain good holds that lead up and back right into the scoop above. The latter seems easier for tall climbers and a number of extravagant grades have been assigned to the direct version past the bolt. The second pitch has some excellent slab climbing and leads up to the more broken middle section of the route where some of the pitches may be combined for a faster ascent.
Pitch 8 is awkward. The third bolt draws the climber too far left around a rib and is best left unclipped, and the crux section in the chimney is far from obvious and the bolts seem misplaced. There is a bolted pitch 9 although the obvious finish is to move left around a rib and wander off up and left on easy ground, as shown in the topo.
The bolted pitch (5.4) goes straight up above the belay past two bolts and then angles over to the left past two more bolts to a fixed station below easy terrain.
Extra care is necessary near the top not to dislodge loose rock, particularly using the former finish.
Descent Use the alternative descent route from EEOR (see next section) that drops down from the ridge and joins the approach trail just below Spud Crag. It is possible to rappel the route with a single 50 m rope but this is not recommended. Not only is the climb often congested with parties trying to make upward progress, but retrieving the rope is likely to generate rockfall.
From the old "Banff Rock" Book, (c) Chris Perry:
This popular, multi-pitch sport route has some excellent climbing although the middle section is relatively easy and lacks interest. The climb is entirely protected by bolts and it makes a good introduction to the longer climbs. It begins up a small rib immediately left of the Fumbles gully and climbs a wide, open corner system in the upper part of the cliff (see photograph in the EEOR section).
Start on the left-hand side of the scree cone below the Fumbles gully to the right of a small rib. The first pitch is the crux and can be climbed either by moving directly over the bulge or by making a steep move left and down slightly from the bolt to gain good holds that lead up and back right into the scoop above. The latter seems easier for tall climbers and a number of extravagant grades have been assigned to the direct version past the bolt. The second pitch has some excellent slab climbing and leads up to the more broken middle section of the route where some of the pitches may be combined for a faster ascent.
Pitch 8 is awkward. The third bolt draws the climber too far left around a rib and is best left unclipped, and the crux section in the chimney is far from obvious and the bolts seem misplaced. There is a bolted pitch 9 although the obvious finish is to move left around a rib and wander off up and left on easy ground, as shown in the topo.
The bolted pitch (5.4) goes straight up above the belay past two bolts and then angles over to the left past two more bolts to a fixed station below easy terrain.
Extra care is necessary near the top not to dislodge loose rock, particularly using the former finish.
Descent Use the alternative descent route from EEOR (see next section) that drops down from the ridge and joins the approach trail just below Spud Crag. It is possible to rappel the route with a single 50 m rope but this is not recommended. Not only is the climb often congested with parties trying to make upward progress, but retrieving the rope is likely to generate rockfall.
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