A great New River dihedral/fingercrack! Sustained climbing with a tough start and challenging finish. Jam, sidepull, stem, and smear to nice ledge/rest. Protect well and follow right-leaning crack (crux 1) to jugs/rest below awkward roof slot. Surmount roof slot (crux 2), move left, then up through 2nd roof slot (crux 3) to ledge. Finish on easier terrain to anchors.
Near the right end of Junkyard Wall proper. Immediately right (around corner) from Four Sheets to the Wind. Look for fingercrack in a right-facing dihedral, usually heavily chalked.
Standard rack. Small-med nuts, med cams. Couple long draws or runners (roof). Anchors.
This is not dangerous at all. It is as G-rated as it can get. Getting hurt on this would be a result of placing bad gear (leader error) or just terrible luck. The bottom is a little strenuous but it protects like a dream. Get on it. One of the best hard 10s at the New.
By DJ Shalvey Aug 19, 2012 rating: 5.11-6c22VIII+22E3 5c
I disagree, Air. The only pro around at the beginning of crux one was a tiny wire nut. At that point you gotta gun it through the crux to the jugs. A friend of mine fell there this weekend and jacked up his ankle. There was no error in his gear.
By Chris Whisenhunt Administrator From: Fayetteville, WV Dec 4, 2012 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Climbed this yesterday and got 3 tcus to protect the bottom moves. 2 blue and 1 yellow.
By Will Stat Jun 23, 2013 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Best route at junkyard IMO, and one of the few that didn't seem soft. The start is totally G rated and placing pro isn't hard there if you pay attention to your footwork and get the stemming rests.