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Junkyard Wall
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Four Sheets to the Wind 
Jumping Jack Flash 
JunkYard Dog (JYD) 
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS 
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Nine Lives 
Rapscallion's Blues 
Reachers of Habit 
Reaching New Heights (New River Gunks Direct) 
Realignment (Entertainer direct), The 
Rhododenema 
Scott's Turf Builder 
Stuck In Another Dimension 
Team Jesus 
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Yew Nosemite 

Rapscallion's Blues 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Tom Howard (June 1984)
Page Views: 2,276
Submitted By: DaveB on Jun 12, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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BETA PHOTO: Rapscallion's Blues (5.10c)

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Description 

A great New River dihedral/fingercrack! Sustained climbing with a tough start and challenging finish. Jam, sidepull, stem, and smear to nice ledge/rest. Protect well and follow right-leaning crack (crux 1) to jugs/rest below awkward roof slot. Surmount roof slot (crux 2), move left, then up through 2nd roof slot (crux 3) to ledge. Finish on easier terrain to anchors.


Location 

Near the right end of Junkyard Wall proper. Immediately right (around corner) from Four Sheets to the Wind. Look for fingercrack in a right-facing dihedral, usually heavily chalked.


Protection 

Standard rack. Small-med nuts, med cams. Couple long draws or runners (roof). Anchors.



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By Nathan Toothman
From: Mokuleia, HI
Sep 21, 2009

I recall the top moves being wild and wonderful.

By Alex A
Mar 27, 2010

Great route, for me the crux was the 1st 10-15ft

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Dec 18, 2010

I thought Four Sheets to the Wind was better.

By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Feb 10, 2011

This one is kinda dangerous...couple people I know hurt their ankles on it...(they were fairly solid on 5.10 too.)

By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Saw a bunch of bees up there today above the first roof while leading it. I know it's about to be cold, but still be weary of them.

By Air Alexy
Apr 3, 2012

This is not dangerous at all. It is as G-rated as it can get. Getting hurt on this would be a result of placing bad gear (leader error) or just terrible luck. The bottom is a little strenuous but it protects like a dream. Get on it. One of the best hard 10s at the New.

By DJ Shalvey
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

I disagree, Air. The only pro around at the beginning of crux one was a tiny wire nut. At that point you gotta gun it through the crux to the jugs. A friend of mine fell there this weekend and jacked up his ankle. There was no error in his gear.

By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Climbed this yesterday and got 3 tcus to protect the bottom moves. 2 blue and 1 yellow.

By Will Stat
Jun 23, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Best route at junkyard IMO, and one of the few that didn't seem soft. The start is totally G rated and placing pro isn't hard there if you pay attention to your footwork and get the stemming rests.

By Jake Jones
From: The Eastern Flatlands
Oct 23, 2013

I'm with those that put this thing at ll-. I thought it was a bit tougher than 10.c. Stellar route.