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Original Route (5.8):
After one pitch of the Beckey Route, traverse right on the ledge past a few trees and go up an open book corner system to the top of the buttress rejoining the Beckey Route before attempting the scrabble and 10 foot 5.6 slab to the top.
Direct start (5.8):
Start a few feet to the right of a red blocky overhang and make your way up and left to the ledge previously mentioned and follow the original route rejoining the Beckey Route and finishing to the summit.
Do the direct start and instead of going to the beckey ledge continue up to a ledge below an overhanging leaning block. There's a tree with a sling to belay from. After leaving the belay spot (crux pitch), continue past the leaning block and move up and left to rejoin the original route, belay before you venture up a ramp to the right, then you'll run into a 10 or 15 foot 5.8 crack with an old piton in it. After the crack you'll rejoin the Beckey route and scramble to the top as per the original route.
Pro to 4 inches
By Kevin Peter
Sep 4, 2013
This is a great variation to the Beckey Route and deserves more traffic. Short punchy cruxes through memorable sections of climbing make this route a fun outing.