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 ADVANCED
The Mace
Select Route:
Blood,Sweat, and Fears T 
Bruce Carson Memorial Route T 
Original Route T 
Rappel Route TR 
Real Rappel Route T 
Webster/ Becker Variation T 
Wind, Sand, and Stars  T 

Rappel Route 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 2 pitches, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Baxter, Ross Hardwick, Gordon Douglass, mid 70's
Page Views: 1,097
Submitted By: Karl K on Oct 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

For those looking for a bit more at the end of their day on the Mace. It is possible to toprope the crack below the eyebolts on the second rappel (the one reaching the ground).
It has been led, but that seems less-than-ideal as it has lots of loose rock and fragile flake.
However, the moves themselves are fun: the crux is thought-provoking seam/stem.
Apparently there is a second pitch to the top of the tower. Any info?

Location 

Last rappel as you descend the Original Route.

Protection 

Toprope from huge eyebolts (don't belay through the bolts - use slings & your own carabiners!)


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By Paul Davidson
Oct 22, 2009

FA Tim Coats and Bobbi Bensman.
I believe the second pitch FA was earlier by Gordy Douglas and Scott Baxter.
By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 26, 2009

Thanks, Paul, for the FA info. Any idea on the name? Or rating of 2nd pitch?
By Gordon Douglass
Nov 5, 2009

Hello all - Actually Scott Baxter, Ross Hardwick and myself did the first lead ascents,all free climbed,of both piches of what we called the "Rappel Route" on The Mace back in the mid 70's. The route pretty much went directly up where you rappel down. If memory serves me correctlty we rated the route 10+.

Hope this helps - Gordon Douglass
By Paul Davidson
Nov 5, 2009

Hey Gordy:

Now that you ring my memory, I believe I have mixed up Wind Sand and Stars which is the FFA of Tim and Bobbi I am thinking about. It's the thin stuff to the left of the rap route.
By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 9, 2009

I have tried to update the climb info based on these comments....
By erik kapec
From: prescott, az
Mar 4, 2010

looks fun but hard, flaring thin finger. Anyone know what the route to climbers left of the rap route is with all the chopped bolts? looks like someone went bolt crazy, and there are bolt holes like a foot above the ground...poor ethics but curious what it is if anyone has the beta?
By tcskis
Mar 10, 2010

The Rappel Route is an awesome climb and deserves more stars.
Wind Sand and Stars was an 5.10 A3 route put up by Larry Bruce and Molly Higgins in the early 70's. It climbed the crack system to the left of the Rappel route for 2 aid pitches to the fissure Higgins, a 5.10 off width that Molly lead. My brother, Bobbi Bensman and I free climbed the first pitch with no bolts for a scary 5.11 pitch, then traversed into the notch and climbed a crack on the main tower opposite the 2nd pitch of the Rappel route for another scary 5.11 pitch. Years later some knuckle head with a hilti decided to put in a bolt ladder.
Other obscure and never repeated routes on the Mace are the Webster/Becker route, which basically climbed a crumbly direct start to the crux pitch on the original route and the Carson Memorial, named after Bruce Carson who tried to solo it in the early 70's and later died on Gasherbrum. It starts at the notch, traverses the limestone band on the west side and then climbs the crack on the opposite side of the crux pitch of the original route. It's probably around 5.10+ and a bit scary.
By Erin Orwig
From: Tempe, AZ
Mar 21, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I agree that the Rappel Route deserves more stars. We did it for practice after rapping off the Mace yesterday. Good selection of moves, pretty sustained, makes you think, and a lot of fun. Crux move definitely feels like 10+. Yes, there's a little bit of loose stuff (don't pull on the big flake on the right wall above the crux), but it's easy to avoid. All the key holds are solid. Also fun to work the face just left of the main crack line.
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By Ron Thompson
From: Idlewild, CA
Nov 4, 2010

Sorry, but no bolt ladder started a foot off the ground that Never happen !If someone put bolts a foot off the ground it was not us ! All bolt were place by hand not by drill this was back in 1987 and 1988 and did not go up the crack system on pitch 2. Climb the route yourself and see before you start complaining about it if you can.
By erik kapec
From: prescott, az
Apr 29, 2011

Wasn't complaining or pointing fingers, just took notice. To clarify my mis communication the bolt holes were not directly beneath the old ladder, but were located to climbers right of the route. Right above the ground. Dont worry Ron I plan on climbing the route...it looks fun!