Find the obvious chockstone in the cave-like feature where one would normally rappel into from the summit.
From here, a few cracks angle towards a chimney. Place a bomber #1 Camalot and pull into the chimney from higher ground. Solid hand jams follow through blockier terrain and easy top on a broad shelf below the summit.
Belay the second up or continue up. To your left will be a blank face, and to your right you will see a broken dihedral. Note: below and to the right is actually the Standard Route (5.3) to the summit, so if you wanted to you could bail and follow that use route to the summit.
From the platform, move up flakes that angle towards chimney (don't pull on these too hard) and pull under an awkward but fun overhang into the dihedral proper. Bomber bro ensues until you make last under a roof. Through a solid hand jam and pull yourself over it till you are eye level with the summit block. Place a small cam in horizontal and roll yourself over loose talus onto the summit block.
Build anchor from the summitblock anchors around large, table-shaped rock.
Rappel: from the same anchors, rappel down through the cave-like feature and chockstone to your packs.
Follow approach directions for Dallas Peak. Move up the east face of Dallas Peak per the approach directions, but instead of moving to the north face, go directly below the east part of the summitblock and located the cave like feature with the massive, chockstone overhead. Getting up to this point is very loose with slippery scree, so "chickety check yoourself, so you don't wreck yourself".
Alpine rack with runners making sure you have some smaller TCUs or C3s.
Looking up into the dihedral part of the route.
Greg making the last choss mantle moves to the top...
Looking down the dihedral from just below the summ...
A window into the San Juans. This is the view from...
|By Alex Wood|
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Nov 14, 2012
Trip report about the adventure -->www.summitpost.org/stepping-up-my-game/815165. I am almost inclined to think this route is a first ascent, but I don't really know. This route differs from the ones in Roach's book and didn't really match up to any other route descriptions.