Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rappel accident - LCC, Utah
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
Sep 22, 2012
sltrib.com/sltrib/news/5494256...

Two injured climbers rescued from Big Cottonwood Canyon
Accident One climber in serious condition after fall near Storm Mountain.
By Bob Mims | The Salt Lake Tribune
First Published Sep 21 2012 11:42 am Last Updated Sep 21 2012 04:14 pm
Salt Lake County Search and Rescue workers retrieved two injured climbers late Thursday night from a cliff side near Storm Mountain in Big Cottonwood Canyon.

Unified Police Capt. Kris Ownby said Friday that the two men were rappelling down the Challenge Buttress, just across from Storm Mountain, about 8 p.m. in tandem, alternating as counterbalancing weights to each other. One of them fell off the end of the rope, and both fell as a result.

A 25-year-old climber tumbled about 10 feet, while the second climber, a 31-year-old man, dropped 40 feet.

Ownby said the 25-year-old suffered a lower leg laceration and possibly sprained ankle, but his companion sustained more severe injuries to his legs and upper body.

About 20 rescuers, including four paramedics, responded to the scene. The 25-year-old climber was aided in completing his ascent by 9:30 p.m. and drove himself to a hospital to be checked out. The other climber was lowered by rescuers shortly thereafter and taken to University Hospital in serious but non-life threatening condition.
sfotex
From Sandy, UT
Joined Jul 14, 2007
172 points
Sep 22, 2012
Simul rapping can be expeditious but vigilance must rule the day. Hope both parties fully recover. rcguy
Joined Dec 16, 2010
1 points
Sep 22, 2012
jeeze Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Sep 22, 2012
city of rocks idaho
I was the 23 yesr old involved in the accident. We are still not sure what happened. My friend and i were still hooked onto the rope after we fell because i had knotted the ends. All i remember is him just falling really fast and hitting the ground and then i fell as a result. I have simul rappeled several times before i still do not know what went wrong or what i should do different im the future. anant
From salt lake city utah
Joined Jan 2, 2009
9 points
Sep 22, 2012
Anant,
How is your friend doing?
Prussic backups on a simu rappel can add some safety.

Were you rapping on one rope two?
sfotex
From Sandy, UT
Joined Jul 14, 2007
172 points
Sep 22, 2012
The route in it's entirety.
Which route were you guys descending? An anchor check is in order without a doubt. Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
563 points
Sep 22, 2012
smoke break, pitch 5 or 6 (or 7??) of Dark Shadows
anant wrote:
I was the 23 yesr old involved in the accident. We are still not sure what happened. My friend and i were still hooked onto the rope after we fell because i had knotted the ends. All i remember is him just falling really fast and hitting the ground and then i fell as a result. I have simul rappeled several times before i still do not know what went wrong or what i should do different im the future.


He fell first while your rope was tight, then you fell after he hit the ground?
Eric Krantz
From Black Hills
Joined Feb 21, 2004
469 points
Sep 23, 2012
NRG
I'm sorry to hear about your accident. I'm guessing that the ends of the rope, knots and all, were on the ground. From your description, its seems likely that the first person lost control of the rope/belay device and hit the ground, after which the rope continued to pull through the device, thereby causing the second person to hit the ground. John Douglass
From Seattle, WA
Joined Sep 12, 2010
62 points
Sep 23, 2012
city of rocks idaho
My friend justin is doing okay. He has a fractured vertebrate but the doctors say he will heal up 100 %.
I do think i need to start using prusiks for backup specially when using single ropes.
I do think that he just lost control and fell which resulted in me falling.
I am not sure what route this was but it was on the east face of Challenge buttress and has a second 5.11 pitch.
anant
From salt lake city utah
Joined Jan 2, 2009
9 points
Sep 23, 2012
Mathematical!
Sounds like Worthy Whoopsie. Glad to hear you guys are okay. Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Joined Jul 11, 2008
123 points
Sep 23, 2012
Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...
Sucks dude. One reason I don't rope climb often is my fear that my partner will make a mistake or even worse, I will. Hope you both recover physically and mentally soon. Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Joined Feb 2, 2009
138 points
Oct 2, 2012
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
"Sucks dude. One reason I don't rope climb often is my fear that my partner will make a mistake or even worse, I will."


You Kant be serious.

Just don't do stupid dumb sh_T, like simul rap.


Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
187 points
Oct 4, 2012
CoR
sfotex wrote:
Prussic backups on a simu rappel can add some safety. Were you rapping on one rope two?



You would use an auto block not a prusik but you had better have it dialed in if rapping single strand as the number of raps/lenght/friction needs to be just right. Of course if you don't extend your rap device you can get it sucked in and cause a mess, plus if your partner isn't using one it doesn't help at all. The safest way to do a simul rap, if you must,is to connect yourself to your partner with a long sling, that way neither of you gets away from the other no matter what happens.
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Administrator
Oct 4, 2012
The Hammer
rging wrote:
The safest way to do a simul rap, if you must,is to connect yourself to your partner with a long sling, that way neither of you gets away from the other no matter what happens.

If one person lost control, you would still both fall.
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,450 points
Oct 4, 2012
Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...
Guy- Not saying it's a rational fear, just that I don't like the idea that if I screw up it could affect someone else. And yeah, you would never catch me doing a simul-rappel unless there was a volcano spewing lava right above us and we had to both get off the summit at the same time. Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Joined Feb 2, 2009
138 points
Oct 4, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
This is a good reason not to simulrappel. No thanks. Unless you are rappelling a 25 pitch route in a day, there is no point. And as you said, you have no idea what your partner did wrong. Who needs that? Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,494 points
Oct 4, 2012
Mashers Tower
I don't see the point either

unless they couldn't decide who should go first
Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
162 points
Oct 4, 2012
CJC wrote:
I don't see the point either unless they couldn't decide who should go first

It's much faster, esp. with double ropes. The whole near-death part definitively detracts from it though. I've come to hate it and pretty much refuse to do it.
Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,664 points
Oct 4, 2012
sfotex wrote:
Anant, How is your friend doing? Prussic backups on a simu rappel can add some safety. Were you rapping on one rope two?


prussik backups on EVERY rappel adds safety.
Avi Katz
Joined Sep 8, 2010
203 points
Oct 4, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Stich wrote:
This is a good reason not to simulrappel. No thanks. Unless you are rappelling a 25 pitch route in a day, there is no point. And as you said, you have no idea what your partner did wrong. Who needs that?


or just have a clue what you're doing.
NickinCO
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
239 points
Oct 4, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
You might want to have a clue what the potential costs are vs. benefits. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,494 points
Oct 5, 2012
CoR
M Sprague wrote:
If one person lost control, you would still both fall.



Nope
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Oct 5, 2012
rging wrote:
You would use an auto block not a prusik

Any properly tied friction hitch works. It is personal preference.

Get well.
cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
239 points
Oct 5, 2012
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai
rging wrote:
Nope


Depends... on whether or not there is a knot, and which side of the "rings" it's on in relation to the one who loses controll -assuming it jams in the anchor.
nbrown
From western NC
Joined Nov 6, 2007
4,762 points
Administrator
Oct 5, 2012
The Hammer
rging wrote:
Nope

Explain. I don't see how being tethered together helps anything. Assuming for simplicity sake you are not relying on the chance the joining knot is on the lucky side and catches, if one person lets go of their rope, the physics would be the same as if both climbers were on one side, no? I would suggest you set up a model with low friction string and see what happens.

This shows why Keep it Simple is so important, particularly when tired. There is less chance a basic physics error will kill you dead.
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,450 points
Oct 5, 2012
rging wrote:
Nope

Yep, as I understand it.
The point of "tethering" is that if one climber reaches a belay and accidentally disconnects from the rappel before the other climber is secure, the other climber will still be "safe" (fall will be arrested by the tether). I never used the "tether."

Like a lot of recreational climbers, I've dome simul rapelling, but eventually came to the conclusion that the risks outweigh the benefits, for me. The calculation may be different when doing lots of rappels or for "professional" types who may have their shit absolutely dialed in. I think it's one of those things where there is no absolute right or wrong; we've all got to figure out what our personal best practice is, in this case in conjunction with our partner.
pfwein
From Boulder, CO
Joined May 7, 2006
91 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!