This is the crag that sits across the river from the road, between the Merlin formation and Tunnel 2. The crag sits right on the river's edge and is identified by a fixed line across its base. Rock quality is not as nice down low, but it gets much better as you climb upwards.
Take the New River trail and you can either rappel from the anchors at the top down to the fixed line, or continue down to Merlin and start heading back upstream on a faint trail past the tip of the big dead tree leaning on the hillside. Make your way back to the wall and scramble up and left across good ledges to some bolts at the dropoff. This is the start of the fixed line... Rappel down the small 10 foot wall to the ledge at the base of the cliff. (You either need to climb out, or ascend back up this short cliff to get out.)
This route begins at the far left end of the fixed line. Climbs up amazing stone on some incredible holds, essentially two overhanging boulder problems seperated by a good rest. Head straight up after the third bolt for a reachy crux up the arete. After the rest, enjoy the exposure and a couple of long moves. Best to second this one and just climb out or lower from the last bolt. Although short, this route climbs quality stone and has some really fun moves....[more]Browse More Classics in CO