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Rapids Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B.F.F.F. S 
Fleshwound S 
Unknown 5.9+ S 
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Rapids Rock  

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Location: 39.73764, -105.31775 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,153
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: half-pad-mini-jug on Sep 13, 2008
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Upper Canyon access closed - 8p Mar. 22 - 5p Mar. 28 MORE INFO >>>


This is the crag that sits across the river from the road, between the Merlin formation and Tunnel 2. The crag sits right on the river's edge and is identified by a fixed line across its base. Rock quality is not as nice down low, but it gets much better as you climb upwards.

Getting There 

Take the New River trail and you can either rappel from the anchors at the top down to the fixed line, or continue down to Merlin and start heading back upstream on a faint trail past the tip of the big dead tree leaning on the hillside. Make your way back to the wall and scramble up and left across good ledges to some bolts at the dropoff. This is the start of the fixed line... Rappel down the small 10 foot wall to the ledge at the base of the cliff. (You either need to climb out, or ascend back up this short cliff to get out.)


A. Unknown 5.9+, 9, 1p, 35', bolts.
B. B.F.F.F., 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Fleshwound, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.0 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Rapids Rock
B.F.F., 5.12.

B.F.F.F. 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  CO : Golden : ... : Rapids Rock
This route begins at the far left end of the fixed line. Climbs up amazing stone on some incredible holds, essentially two overhanging boulder problems seperated by a good rest. Head straight up after the third bolt for a reachy crux up the arete. After the rest, enjoy the exposure and a couple of long moves. Best to second this one and just climb out or lower from the last bolt. Although short, this route climbs quality stone and has some really fun moves....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Rapids Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Oct 30, 2008
If the fixed line at the base bothers anyone, I would be more than happy to remove it. However, it is really the only safe way to navigate across the base of the wall.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 30, 2008
I am gonna have to go check those routes out! Looks fun!
i doubt the fixed line would bother anyone other than Jeffco, if they know about it...

Would you want to help me move that big log in to place across from Merlin?
By JeffCoOpenSpaceRanger
From: Golden, CO
Nov 2, 2008
The fixed line is fine. We're in the process of inventorying the climbing areas in Clear Creek Canyon (i.e.- measuring impacts, taking photos, etc.) that's why we were looking at the crag.

Please do not drop the dead tree across the creek. Doing so will create a very serious river hazard.

~Ranger Mike
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