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 ADVANCED
Lower East Face
Select Route:
Alexander's Chimney T 
Crack of Delight T 
Directagonal T 
Endless Summer T 
Fields' Chimney (summer) T 
Kor's Door T 
Malander's Passage T 
Rap Descent from Top of Lower East Face T 
Stettner's Ledges T 

Rap Descent from Top of Lower East Face 

YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine
Consensus:  YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c [details]
FA: Established by Roger Briggs & Chip Chace
Page Views: 981
Submitted By: Bob Rotert on Jul 24, 2007

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Description 

Here's how to find it:  It's between The Notch/Kiener's Couloir and the nasty snowfield that dips down below the Diamond, perhaps 100 feet south of where the Diagonal Direct finishes. This is a very wide part of Broadway with lots of rubble.  Look for TRIPLE bolts very high on Broadway.  These are a rescue anchor for the Park, or for early season/ winter when there's snow on Broadway.  The first rap anchor is directly below these, maybe 40 feet, just where the wall drops off.  This is also the belay for the last pitch of Endless Summer.  Do 3 raps down to a big ledgy area, then scramble 100 feet down (north) to double bolts, then do 3 more raps to Mill's Glacier.  You do need two 60 meter ropes.

Location 

It's between The Notch/Kiener's Couloir and the nasty snowfield that dips down below]] the Diamond, perhaps 100 feet south of where the Diagonal Direct finishes. This is a very wide part of Broadway with lots of rubble. Look for TRIPLE bolts very high on Broadway. These are a rescue anchor for the Park, or for early season/ winter when there's snow on Broadway. The first rap anchor is directly below these, maybe 40 feet, just where the wall drops off.

Protection 

You  do need two 60 meter ropes.


Comments on Rap Descent from Top of Lower East Face Add Comment
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By Willow Toso
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 9, 2008

The 100 foot scramble is down and across a narrow, unprotected ledge system. You are totally exposed and we experienced rock fall when we were on it. I was absolutely terrified. Just FYI if you do this descent.
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Sep 7, 2011

Has anyone tried this who has also rapped Alexander's Chimney? I'd be interested in a comparison. Did Alexander's as the descent from Kor's Door Monday, and I would prefer something with less water, loose rock and ice on it. I know it's an alpine climb but....