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By sunder
From Alsip, Il
Oct 12, 2010
ICE PIT 2011

So i was out climbing at the Red this weekend and had to cut some old cunchy weathered webbing with a Rap ring off the top anchors b/c i couldn't trust it. So i left two of my bail biners up there.

Since it was rappel anchors i would rather of left a quick link and a steel rappel ring. Which i have no problem keeping them in my pack.

I would use the following on non stainless steel hangers.

3/8 Plated Quick link
www.fixeusa.com/screw_links_oval.htm

Plated Rapell Ring
www.fixeusa.com/rappel_rings-199_209.htm

Is there anything wrong with this?

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Also i did another climb that the one rap anchors bolt was really loose. All i could do was to hand tighten it. I have reported the bolt to teamsuckclimbing. What sizes are common sizes of the bolts so i can carry a wrench to tight them up a bit?


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By sunder
From Alsip, Il
Oct 12, 2010
ICE PIT 2011

Also places to buy the steel quicklinks and rap rings would be nice as well.


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By redlude97
Oct 12, 2010

why didn't you just leave the rap ring(s) you cut off on the biners. You can buy quicklinks at most hardware stores


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By Brian in SLC
Oct 12, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

sunder wrote:
Also places to buy the steel quicklinks and rap rings would be nice as well.


Well, if you're at the Red (or anywhere in the SE), I'd suggest using stainless if you can afford it. It'll last a bunch longer and won't leave rust stains on the rock.

The fixe site you referenced above is probably the best place to buy a stainless ring. They're around 6 bucks per. Every once in a while, they put them on sale for 5 bucks per.

I see Raumer stainless rappel rings on gearx.com for 5 per.

You can buy stainless rapides (quick links) at most boating supply stores. I use the 5/16" (8mm) as they are still large enough to accept a 10mm ring and plenty strong. 3/8" (10mm) would work fine too but are a bit more spendy. I get the 5/16" ones for around $4 each.

Nice thing too about stainless, is, they take paint way better than plated hardware. And, even with a bit of wear, they don't rust. Which, at the Red, would be nice.


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By Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 13, 2010

Home Depot sells stainless quicklinks


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By sunder
From Alsip, Il
Oct 13, 2010
ICE PIT 2011

redlude97 wrote:
why didn't you just leave the rap ring(s) you cut off on the biners. You can buy quicklinks at most hardware stores


It was the cheap-o smc descending rap ring they are only rated to around 14KN. It has had some use as well. If it was a beefy steel one i would of left it.

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I thought that you didn't want to mix Carbon/Palated Steel with Stainless steel since they will corrode. Or is this only really followed for the Bolt and the Hanger?

I did stop at the hardware store to buy some quick line but then i decied not to because the package said "Do Not use to support human weight", "Not for Vertical Lifting" with a big fat MADE IN CHINA. Only had the strenght and not the Safe Working Load on the package as well. So i took that is there Quality Control Sucks, no testing is done, and who knows what the raw material is made up of or where it came from. Yeah I don't want to climb or rap off that shit. If i am going to be leaving gear that someone else will be using i would like it to be UIAA, CE approved, etc.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Oct 13, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Missed seeing you anywhere this weekend at the Red. What route was the problem gear found on?


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By sunder
From Alsip, Il
Oct 13, 2010
ICE PIT 2011

American crack at fortress had the left rap anchor with a loose bolt.

Loveshack in the purple valley had the crunch webbing and rap ring


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By Woodchuck ATC
Oct 13, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Ahh, a traddie' weekend up 'north of the tunnel it was, eh? I was down in sports'ville Muir most of the time this visit.


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By Layne Wyse
From Pgh, PA
Dec 8, 2010

As to wrench size:

If you just carry a small adjustable crescent-type wrench, it will cover the bases. It only needs to accommodate less than one inch sizes, so it can be small enough to tote around all the time in your pack. Tie some old cord to it and you're all set.


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