Ranklands of Perfidy
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.8 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | George Watson & Norman Boles, 1980s? |
Page Views: | 1,614 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Ken Heiser on Feb 28, 2005 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Climb the dirty crack over a roof skipping the first bolt. This bolt is useless and unnecessary as there is a great cam placement approximately 4 inches from the bolt. Continue up to the second roof. Climb this on the left, 10a, or around to the right (easier). Continue up the crack system until another bolt is encountered. Again this bolt is completely unneccesary. Place an Alien right next to the bolt, and climb a quick crux (9). Exit the crack, and find yourself on the slab.
The first time I led this, I place gear to protect my second and traversed across the slab to the right to the LAJ anchor and rappeled. The second time that I led this I went straight up the slab for a few feet, placed marginal gear, did a mantle (10a poor pro), then traversed straight left to the bolt anchor at the top of P1 of A Long December.
From there, we climbed out to the left of the ALD anchor and climbed the twin seam/cracks up the left margin of the slab (p2 of Caesar's crack) to the anchor at the top of p2 of A Long December. The twin seam/crack is a very nice trad pitch. The bolts on p2 of ALD are just to the right when climbing this crack system, but wanting to do a trad lead, I ingnored them. Doing Ranklands this way makes for a very enjoyable 2 pitch 10a trad outing.
Ranklands does not have the greatest rock at the base but the holds that look chossy are suprisingly solid. It is not a destination climb by any means but worth doing once when visiting the December Wall.
The first time I led this, I place gear to protect my second and traversed across the slab to the right to the LAJ anchor and rappeled. The second time that I led this I went straight up the slab for a few feet, placed marginal gear, did a mantle (10a poor pro), then traversed straight left to the bolt anchor at the top of P1 of A Long December.
From there, we climbed out to the left of the ALD anchor and climbed the twin seam/cracks up the left margin of the slab (p2 of Caesar's crack) to the anchor at the top of p2 of A Long December. The twin seam/crack is a very nice trad pitch. The bolts on p2 of ALD are just to the right when climbing this crack system, but wanting to do a trad lead, I ingnored them. Doing Ranklands this way makes for a very enjoyable 2 pitch 10a trad outing.
Ranklands does not have the greatest rock at the base but the holds that look chossy are suprisingly solid. It is not a destination climb by any means but worth doing once when visiting the December Wall.
Location
Find this route about 20 feet or so to the left of Life after James (good pix of this on this website). Identify this as the dirty crack system with a bolt at the base.
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