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Approach Via the Durrance approach and head left at the cliff base to reach the SW corner. At the SW corner there are a number of shorter colunms that reach a height of perhaps 100'.
The dihedral at the right hand edge of the right-most of these colums, beginning as a ever-steepening slab is "Rangers Are People Too." The next crack left of this, on the left side of the right-most short column, is the fist pitch of Driect SouthWest.
P1: (5.10-, 100' (?)Locate the climb as described above and start up the slabby initial section (easy) and into the right-facing crack & corner with thin jams and stems. CLimb this to a good ledge with a fixed belay. Although I am not certain a single 60M gets you to the ground, it is close enough to be a mere scramble for sure. The route is not very sustained.
A good set of nuts and cams to 2.5"
BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000
I always preferred the "original" name of this rou...
BETA PHOTO: One fine contribution by the late Jim Schlinkmann....
|By Ryan Minton|
May 20, 2003
Are you sure about that rating? I was under the impression that the route was rated at 5.9-, I did it last time I was up at the Tower and it didn't feel like it was a 10- ?
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 9, 2003
The actual name of this route is "Rangers Are Perverts Too".
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 30, 2003
It could be 9-, no arguement from me, but the book said 10a. I swapped the 10a to a 10- becuase I thought it less than 10.
|By Ryan Minton|
Nov 25, 2003
Which guidebook calls it 10a? Maybe the rating applies to the fact that it seems a bit sustained towards the top? Good route no matter what...
|By Cameron Luth|
Apr 16, 2007
This climb is super fantastic. One of my favs on the tower. A really good lead I think.
|By Alex A|
Sep 22, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Fun climb, good gear, No way is this 5.10, easy 5.9-, at Devils Lake it would be 5.8, my guide book from 1986 calls it 5.9-