Login with Facebook
Durrance Approach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black-Jones Direct T 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 
Direct Southwest T 
Double-Edged Blade T 
Durrance T 
Fritz's Fantasy S 
interesting problem below, The T 
Late for Dinner T 
Liken Lichen T 
Lovely Liana T 
Manifest Destiny T 
P.O.T.C. T 
Pseudo- Wiessner T 
Rangers Are People Too T 
Sundance T 
Wiessner T 

Rangers Are People Too 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: J. Schlinkmann, S. Gardiner, R. Guilmette, '85
Page Views: 2,223
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 5, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Eastvillage on Rangers Are Pervert's too, my first...

Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


Approach Via the Durrance approach and head left at the cliff base to reach the SW corner. At the SW corner there are a number of shorter columns that reach a height of perhaps 100'.

The dihedral at the right hand edge of the right-most of these columns, beginning as an ever-steepening slab is "Rangers Are People Too." The next crack left of this, on the left side of the right-most short column, is the fist pitch of Direct SouthWest.

P1: (5.10-, 100' (?)Locate the climb as described above and start up the slabby initial section (easy) and into the right-facing crack & corner with thin jams and stems. Climb this to a good ledge with a fixed belay. Although I am not certain a single 60M gets you to the ground, it is close enough to be a mere scramble for sure. The route is not very sustained.


A good set of nuts and cams to 2.5"

Photos of Rangers Are People Too Slideshow Add Photo
Taken June, 2000
BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000
I always preferred the "original" name o...
I always preferred the "original" name o...
One fine contribution by the late Jim Schlinkmann....
BETA PHOTO: One fine contribution by the late Jim Schlinkmann....
Charlie Farrow
Charlie Farrow

Comments on Rangers Are People Too Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Minton
May 20, 2003

Are you sure about that rating? I was under the impression that the route was rated at 5.9-, I did it last time I was up at the Tower and it didn't feel like it was a 10- ?
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 9, 2003

The actual name of this route is "Rangers Are Perverts Too".
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 30, 2003

It could be 9-, no arguement from me, but the book said 10a. I swapped the 10a to a 10- becuase I thought it less than 10.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 10, 2003

The poorperson's guide calls this 9-.
By Ryan Minton
Nov 25, 2003

Which guidebook calls it 10a? Maybe the rating applies to the fact that it seems a bit sustained towards the top? Good route no matter what...
By Cameron Luth
Apr 16, 2007

This climb is super fantastic. One of my favs on the tower. A really good lead I think.
By Alex A
Sep 22, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun climb, good gear, No way is this 5.10, easy 5.9-, at Devils Lake it would be 5.8, my guide book from 1986 calls it 5.9-
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!