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Ranger Bolts (aka Move over Rover) 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Jim Thornburg, 1989 (tr), John Yablonski, Jim Thornburg, Scott Frye, 1989 (lead)
Page Views: 3,537
Submitted By: jim thornburg on Feb 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Chris Sharma (when he was 13) climbing Ranger Bolt...

Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Super classic overhanging face on the North Face. Best rock-quality in Pinnacles?

Protection 

Bolts


Comments on Ranger Bolts (aka Move over Rover) Add Comment
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By jimi thornburg
Dec 17, 2014

Someone placed a lower off anchor 6 feet below the lip of the overhang, I assume to facilitate lowering off with a 60-meter rope. The problem with the anchor is it was placed just below the route's upper, heartbreaker crux, so stopping at the anchor means nice try, but you didn't finish the route. All of the early ascents of the route climbed to the summit.

An anchor just above the final crux is the way to go, but people would need to be aware that a 70-meter rope is needed to lower off.
By Kyle Queener
From: Monterey, California
May 21, 2015

A somewhat key hold has broken off just shy of the first set of anchors making this slightly harder now but maintains the same grade, in my opinion.

-To the first set of anchors feels solid 5.11d/5.12a and is great climb itself.

-To the middle anchors which Jim described in his comment is 5.13a - but stopping there may cause Yabo to roll over in his grave.

-To the tippy top is 5.13a but with a 5.12a red point crux at the top - If you do it this way Yabo rests in peace.
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