View Routes near Random Crystals| Lower Blair III |  |
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
L to R R to L Alpha
| A Dream of Fat Antelope T | ||
| A Horse Will Have To Do T | ||
| Arete Already T | ||
| Bragging About Jesus S | ||
| Bullwinkle T | ||
| Damit T | ||
| Empty Suit T | ||
| Five Finger Discount T,S | ||
| Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T | ||
| Hard to Believe T | ||
| Inconvenient Angles T | ||
| Inner Notch T | ||
| Intimidation T | ||
| Jogging to Vedauwoo T | ||
| La Femme Takeda T | ||
| Ledge of the World, The T | ||
| Middle Notch T,TR | ||
| Outer Notch T | ||
| Penetration T | ||
| Pretty Girls with Long Knives T | ||
| Random Crystals T | ||
| Scratch the Surface T | ||
| Sketch Palsy S | ||
| Sweet Variation T | ||
| Take 5 T | ||
| Unicorn Exterminator T | ||
| Unremembered T | ||
| Unsorted Routes: | ||
Random Crystals
YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70' |
| Consensus: | YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details] |
| FA: | |
| Page Views: | 700 |
| Submitted By: | KateC on Feb 29, 2008 |
You & This Route | Other Opinions (9)
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| Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>> |
Description
Located 10' left of "Go Left..." and 10' right of "Fat Antelopes," this route starts with low-angle grungy crack climbing to a wide ledge. From here, jam two cracks in a V and then work up between them or the left crack to the flake above.
Protection
Cams, a few bigger ones. Bolted anchors at top.
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By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Longmont, CO Aug 1, 2008 rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
This route is located probably about 20' left of Go Left, Old Man, Go Left. Similar to that route, the first section is garbage-y with all of the solid climbing located in the last 20' of the route. |
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By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Longmont, CO Aug 4, 2008 rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
OK, after having done what is a worthwhile warm up for this area, here's the lowdown: this route is located about 10' left of Go Left and is the first route after this one. The first 30' probably go at 5.5 on a low angled slab split by a crack (as does Go Left). The business starts at the end of this slab where a wide, steep, and flaring crack diverges into two distinct hand size cracks. To surmount this, throw a jam in on the left hand crack (a hand-size piece will protect his move, although the flaring nature of the crack makes it a little spooky) and work your feet up until you can throw another jam into the right hand crack. From here on out, the route is relatively straight forward - work both cracks until you reach the end of them, breaking out right when you reach the flake at the top. Bolted anchors at the top will get you to the bottom; although, I am not sure why these are here given that there is an easy walk off just to the south. Having done this route now twice over the past several years, I am not sure what Kate is referring to. The vast majority of the route is typical Vedauwoo 7 (disregarding the first section) with only the crux checking in at somewhere around 8. I didn't feel that this route was any more difficult than the last time I did this - the jams are good and getting into the hand cracks just seem like typical 'woo trickery no harder than Le Petite Arbre or the start of Juxtaposition. Singles in the hand size pieces will get you up this easily. |
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By KateC Aug 10, 2009 |
Hmm, revisited the area this weekend and now I'm rereading my submissions. Pretty sure what I described above was for Dream of Fat Antelopes, the next climb to the left. I'll replace my description with Matt's as he is, as usual, much better than me. |
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By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Longmont, CO Aug 28, 2009 rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Haha...not so sure about that, Kate. |
