||Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Deaun Schovajsa/Dave Gottenborg, 1994? |
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||624|
|Submitted By: ||bhoran on Apr 1, 2009|
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The route sends the middle of the east face via 5 ...
|Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>|
This involves thin, face climbing.
This route is pictured and described in old Hubbel guide and described in new Haas guide and is actually located on the left side of Crater Crag/North Quarry Area's east-facing wall, and the Misty
route and all, on the east face, nice shade in the afternoon during winter months. In Jason's guide he says it is 60 feet right of Cracking Up
, but it is actually on the opposite, east side of the wall from the latter route. It is an easy mistake to make.
5 bolts/ no anchors up top/old pipe in rock summit.
By Jason Haas
Apr 11, 2009
Bob, thanks for the correction. That is an easy mistake to make. There is in fact a bolted route 60ft right of Crackin' Up and it goes at about the same grade as this line. I emailed Deaun about it while we were working on the book and based on his email, it seemed like I got it right, but thanks again for the correct info. At the time, I looked into the true quarry and didn't see any bolts, but I guess I didn't inspect it close enough. Great contributions!
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 29, 2011
Watch for a bit of loose rock on this climb. There is a left finish that goes ~5.8. #4 & #5 BD wires and a #0.75 Camalot can make this feel well-protected, except for the very start. 48" slings or longer are useful for the top. Also, a #0.5 Camalot can backup the pipe.
Addendum: staying just left of the crack at the finish allows you to get some nice stems and make it a mellower finish. Thanks for the beta, Dave!
The middle finish, 6/22/11.