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Rancho Penasquitos Canyon

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Face Climb 
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Rancho Penasquitos Canyon 


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Location: 32.9271, -117.1772 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Marc Kajut, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Raz on Dec 10, 2012
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Waterfall area with Still waters run deep on the l...
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Description 

Within a small canyon frequented by afternoon hikers and bikers, lies a handful of short boulders that are worth mentioning on MountainProject for their relative convenience to the Miramar/UTC area.

The boulders are found right by the small waterfalls that flows through the canyon. While the rock quality is nowhere near the superb granite usually found in San Diego, the boulders closer to the river have hardened due to their close proximity to the water. This means there is a wide variety of rock quality for such a small area. If you've only got an hour or two, and are in the mood for one or two short overhangs, a fun face, and some easy slabs, this is a great place to spend the afternoon.

While I've never seen any other climbers here, the evidence of chalk on some of the rocks suggests the area gets some traffic now and then. If anyone has any prior knowledge of the area, it would be great to consolidate it to a centralized are.

Further, the spot is easy to hike to and this means that the river has some trash floating around. If you happen to have the chance, be a good example of climbers in the area and help maintain the environment by taking as much as you can on your way out.


Getting There 

If you're looking for the quickest way to the boulders, park at the end of Park Village Road (32.938898, -117.168862) There, there is a gate at the beginning of the trail. Head past the gate and follow the telephone poles into the canyon. Then, stray right from the telephone poles, and head west, following the signs for the waterfall. Overall the hike is 1.2 miles long. The following Maps show the route from the parking to the boulders.
From the Parking to the Boulders


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rancho Penasquitos Canyon:
Still Waters Run Deep   V2 5+     Boulder   Still Waters Run Deep
Hangnail Left   V2 5+     Boulder, 8'   Thumb Boulder
Super Bowl   V3 6A     Boulder   Super Bowl
Browse More Classics in Rancho Penasquitos Canyon

Featured Route For Rancho Penasquitos Canyon
Nick Franco getting ready to fire for the ledge

Mr.Longarm V4 6B  CA : San Diego County : ... : Mr.Longarm
SDS at two small incut crimps, fire for the ledge and climb to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Rancho Penasquitos Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Waterfall area
Waterfall area
Panaram of the trail and waterfall area
Panaram of the trail and waterfall area
Comments on Rancho Penasquitos Canyon Add Comment
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By atp
From: Clairemont Mesa, CA
Apr 22, 2013

I started climbing Los Penasquitos Canyon Preserve since last fall trying to climb what I could. I talked with a couple climbers who grew up climbing around here to get any info on the area and they spoke of one guy they knew, which ended up saying there were only a few climbs put up otherwise it seemed open. I tried to research what i could online and only came across a couple pictures of top roping on the right side of the larger rock face next to the river and a old picture of a boulder on the face climb you have in your picture "the thumb". I'll keep looking into finding out any more info I can. The rock here is unique but fun for local climbing, most climbs have fun movement and its a beautiful area to just be at.