BETA PHOTO: Rancher Rock Topo
Current as of 11/2/2010
This is perhaps the most accessable formation in the Sweetwater Rocks. It is quite obvious east of Agate Flat Road at the turn off at the second cattle grate past the Sweetwater River, where you start into Hampi Boulders and the north side of Lankin Dome.
Most people have blown it off as a choss pile, but Ed and Mark and I have established seven very nice routes to date. You have to see it in the right light to appreciate it.
Route 1 on the topo goes to the top and you have to do a long walk off to the SE to a talus gulley. We found a couple of fixed pins on our ascent of this, so perhaps NOLS was here before. Routes 2,3,4,7 need only one 60m rope. There are Fixx ring anchors at 30m on these routes. On Route 4 (Mad Knowledge of Self), the second pitch goes to the rim where there is a Fixx ring anchor set. Again, this is a 30m pitch. Route 5 and 6 are 60m long, end at a Fixx anchor set and need 2-60m ropes to rappel the routes.
Routes 2,3 4, and 7 are especially high quality for movement and great rock. Plan on bringing a rack to this place, because placements are needed, even on the routes with bolts. This is a great little place to climb, wonderful views of the Winds and the desert, easily accessable. Ed and I originally came here one spring when we were chased out of Moonstone by ol' Rancher Dan, who had the grazing lease. Not wanting to go back to town empty handed, we went to this place and established Rancher Avoidance Procedure. Cool place, dig it.
Turn north off the highway east of Jeffrey City onto Agate Flat Road. Drive to the second cattlegrate past the bridge over the Sweetwater River. Immediately turn right and follow a sandy road along the fence line. Where the main road turns left, continue along the fence line on a fainter track going straight to the rock above. Park behind a boulder just below the rock. To approach routes 1,2,3,4, and 7, walk up to some slabs right of a brushy gulley, scramble a bit up to a long ramp leading right. This puts you on a nice bench below the center of the face, above which is route 1 on the topo. Scrambling up and right a bit brings you to a cool alcove behind a large tree where route 2,3,4, and 7 on the topo are found. To get to routes 5 and 6, cross the fence by the car and walk up a faint ridge paralleling the face until you get to a little meadow below a slabby area. Scramble up ledges for 50 feet or so to a bench. Routes 5 and 6 are above.
Weather station 5.6 miles from here
6 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Rancher Rock
Mad Knowledge of Self 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b WY
: Sweetwater Rocks
: Rancher Rock
Face along a crystally ramp until beneath the ominous looking hanging flake. Amazingly it is only about 5.7 to lieback onto this thing. Proceed up the corner to the roof. Go left around to a Half Dollar flake, then traverse more left and slightely up to a thin right facing flake. You can place a TCU in the Half Dollar, but runner it good and be sure the rope doesn't run around the bottom of the flake when you get higher, or it will jam. Go straight up past bolts (10b) to the anchor. The se...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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