Me approaching the anchor on Rambo Santa, Tracy on...
Begin at a pine tree about 40 feet down and right from "Arkansas Patriot." This on the left side of this rock. Go left from where the approach trail reaches the rock.
This long climb is fairly simple to figure out... climb straight up through the bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Remember to place pro in some horizontal cracks if the next bolt feels too far away. A double-rope rappel is easiest (165 feet), but it is possible to scramble down to the west (left).
If I remember correctly, there are 6 bolts on the face (don't worry, I know for sure that's there's no more than that!). Bring a few small cams (#0.5 and #0.75 Camalots) and stoppers to supplement the bolts if you aren't positive about a good distance between bolts on a 5.7. Two-bolt anchor 165 feet up, so bring TWO ROPES for the rap.
Nice route for the grade, but would advise to bring a mix of medium cams and nuts for between bolts. You can also rap the the Tree Roof belay with a 60 meter rope, just be careful of the rope hanging up on a knob about halfway up.
Climbed this route for the second time yesterday and really enjoyed it. Great route to bring a relative beginner on for following. I believe that in addition to the bolts I placed a .75, 1, and 3.5 Camalots and a yellow Alien. Enjoy.
[Excellent] lead that keeps going, although 5.7 without small cams or protection the runout sections between bolts could scare the unprepared 5.7 leader. There are [plenty] of small slots to offer pro. Once at the anchors I lowered my belayer down, then rapped to the chains to the left and then rapped from those anchors. Someone without experience could run in to difficulties during the [descent].
A climb worth doing. Bolts thoughtfully placed and protects well with additional trad if you so desire. Point of clairification. The "pine tree" mentioned for the base of the route is dead, so look for a big dead pine tree. If you look up carefully you will see the first bolt about 40 ft off the deck above two rust colored sections of rock. This is your route. It is easy to get steered over into the route to the right which is not what u are after unless runout 8(s) on bad bolts is your idea of fun. We trailed a second 60 meter and easily rapped to the ground from the bolts. (These bolts are outdated and should probably be replaced. It is probably a good idea to back them up with the very usuable crack below them).
Had a great time on this climb. I believe there were only 5 bolts and was happy to hear that the gentleman climbing before me replaced the anchors (Thank you!!) The only drawback to this route is the double-rap if you didn't happen to bring 2 ropes. Looking at another post, AC suggests you can go out left and hike down the talus (but then again he didn't mention his rope length.) Anyway, it's a fun warm-up type route and good for beginners as well. Enjoy!
Climbed this today with a single, 60m rope. It's easy to escape left on easy ground to a descent path down the gully. It's about a 5.5 traverse, or easier. Place a piece or two for the piece of mind of the last person in the party.
Great route. A few small cams and nuts will get a beginning leader to the anchor.
By Ayescotty9 Jun 10, 2010 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
This was a fun route for me, an aspiring trad leader, as it allowed me to work in some cam placements between bolts (C4s sizes #0.75-3) on the way up, while having the security of the bolts interspersed. Fun mixed climbing on great rock with positive holds. A recommended climb!