Another Platte classic. There are 3 ways to start this climb.
Option A: Starting left of the roof; scramble up 5.6 knobs up and right to a bolted belay at the base of the giant roof. Easy, and gives you an extra pitch traversing under the roof.
Option B: I have not done, it looks scary and run out. Start by clipping 2 1/4 inchers then follow a right-arching crack until you can go straight up to the roof. 5.10x????
Option C: The best if you want less crack and more knobs, do the first pitch of Lady Slipper following bolts to a bolted belay about half way thru the roof.
P2. 5.7 up the beautiful, clean, corner under the roof 180 feet to a bolted belay.
P3. 5.10 get your mental game ready and tip toe up the knobs. The crux pitch is short (50 feet), and it can be linked up with the next pitch for a 100 foot pitch. If you link the 2, bring some mid-sized gear to build an anchor. (Note, the bolts on the crux pitch have been replaced but not the bolts after the crux pitch. Slightly run out on 1/4's.)
P4. 5.7 follow the easy, left-arching dihederal to a 1/4" bolted belay.
P5. either step left then straight up from the belay, or keep going left until you want to go up, 5.8?
P6. depending on your 5 pitch, take easy ground to the summit.
Per mountainmicah83: walk off to the climber's right.
To find the route look for the giant roof. Traverse beneath this roof until it dies. Go straight up on slap (crux) aiming for a left trending dihederal.
Standard Platte rack, slings, nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot.
Standing below our mission. Ryan Glaze and I enjo...
P3 is rated 5.8, but felt much easier. Above Luke,...
Chuck's following P2 on self-belay. Notice that he...
P2 beautiful corner.
P2 is really low angle, but lots of fun. Run it ou...
The fun pitch under the big roof.
Shane Zentner starting the crux pitch. I traversed...
BETA PHOTO: On the topo: "I" is Ramblin Rose.
The 5.10 fir...
On the P4 crux pitch, approaching the 2nd bolt. I ...
Pete Lardy leading the fourth pitch. (Note the Yat...
Underclinging the overhanging corner between bolts...
Starting the fifth pitch.
Luke following P4 at the second bolt, with Ivan be...
Finishing pitch four. No more button heads!
|By Jim Amidon|
Sep 12, 2007
I forgot this route is so stellar it's not even funny. Another "GEM" of the South Platte....
I've climbed it twice and each pitch is remarkable....
GET ON IT >>>>>
Like most of the Platte there won't be a crowd....
|By John McNamee|
From: Littleton, CO
Oct 1, 2007
Exceptional route with great climbing and features. The crux is well protected. Take a camera.
The pitch after the crux (5.7) on knobs seemed more like 5.8 to me and the runout is spicy. The bolts are old 1/4 inchers and difficult to see before you get to them. Go straight up.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Oct 9, 2007
This was the first route with bolts in the area. The long, leaning, corner is surely one of the most fun "easy" cracks in Colorado. From the bleay at the end on the corner, a double rope rappel reaches safe ground, so the 5.10 face is not mandatory. It would be good to put in another anchor so two single rope raps would be more easily done to escape.
11/15/07: Kirk Miller was part of the FA and named the route. Erik Winkleman led the more direct finish soon after the FA. Hand drilling these long routes was a slow, painful, process that could last several weekends and ultimatley involve many climbers.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 25, 2007
The "5.7 runout" pitch after the crux pitch is marked as 5.9 in both the Hubbel and Trout guides. So we felt better about bailing from the top of the 10 pitch. We had all three of us just finished John Long's new edition of Climbing Anchors which said that 1/4" bolts are essentially useless.
We started via the alleged "5.6 knobs", but couldn't find any. We instead climbed bushy cracks as for Hill's Route and then scrambled down and right to the left edge of the roof. The 2 roof pitches make a great moderate route with huge big wall feeling. The first pitch felt about 5.5 or 5.6, and the second pitch about 5.7. You can rap from the right end of the roof to the ground with one rope with two raps or two ropes with one rap (likewise from the top of the 10a pitch).
The 10a pitch was pretty hard for me. I put in gear out right between the 1st and 2nd bolts. I traversed slightly down from the 1st bolt then up to an overlap for the gear. I put in 2 small nuts at the base of the right facing corner before the last bolt.
|By Dave Wise|
From: Pinehurst, NC
Dec 13, 2007
Definitely an excellent route. Climbed it the first time in June of '96. My friend Bill and I stopped at the Wild Horse saloon enroute to the campsite and partook of a few beers the night before. The next day, Bill was feeling the effects of one too many bud lights on the approach and the first few pitches. As I reached the end of the arch, anchored in, and hollered "On Belay!" to Bill below, I was answered by the sound of his violent retching. When he finally reached me at the anchors, he was feeling much better and was able to fully enjoy the rest of the route. He was even conscientious enough to traverse off route for his purge.
I returned this past summer to take a friend up the first three pitches to introduce him to multi-pitch climbing. Was pleased to see the new bolted anchors at the first 2 belays. Disappointed to see the old Star-dryven remained at the third. I left the #7 stopper there to back up the anchor as we rapped off. I expected the next party would be happy to score the booty. Amazing route, amazing exposure, amazing scenery...and no crowds!
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
May 19, 2008
The old bolts on the "5.9" are not very confidence inspiring...a fall could be nasty. Great route though....
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Oct 1, 2008
I think the sane way to go about the pitch after the crux is to link them, if your really worried you could clip both bolts and equalize them at the anchor atop the 10 pitch then 2 screamers will make it relatively safe. More rope out means more stretch and less force, and on a screamer chances are you might not rip the bolts. There is definitely a lot more features to work with than on the crux I found. I was following so the crux pitch was more of a struggle for me then the run out featured rock above.
This outing really did me in as we got sleeted off the base of the crux (soaked pretty good)then came back the next day ascended maybe 30-40 feet of rope but scrambling up high as possible to a ledge where the rope was reached. It was a little scary. My partner made a few dicey moves un-roped with 70+ feet of air below him. I wanted to be on belay so that what we did. Once at the anchor, he linked the next 2 and I linked the last bit to the top via simul-climbing and the worst rope drag ever in the heat with my water back with my partner at the belay. Apparently, it was about as much fun for my partner to follow a sketch traverse wondering if he's on belay as I pulled the rope as hard as I humanly could. I barely made it back to the car sadly I was so worked from the weather and doing the hike twice (from less then a 1/2 mile from the car) etc. I thank Andy for being so understanding and forgiving, as we only did 1 route all weekend. Come prepared as I sure under-estimated the scope of this route. Oh and bring comfy shoes, my feet hurt pretty bad.
Nov 29, 2008
This was a great route!
Replacing the bolts on the pitch above the crux would definitely be worthwhile. Even if those bolts were good that pitch would still be a little exciting.
If anyone wanted to undertake that task (I don't have a bolt kit or the knowledge) please feel free to contact me through this site.
|By Shane Zentner|
Jun 20, 2009
Pitch 1. As mentioned above, we climbed broken rock and cracks until the traverse(up and right) to the anchor at the start of the huge dihedral. Never found the 5.6 knobs.
Pitch 2.5. Very asthetic climbing in a beautiful dihedral. Water was oozing from the roof crack. Perhaps one of the best 5.7 pitches around. This is actually two pitches.
Pitch 3 (crux). A #1 Camalot placed in the crack between bolts 1 and 2 adds a little reassurance. Reach big for the crack at the fourth bolt and smear like crazy. Climb the right side of the roof and keep your eyes on the anchor. This was mentally challenging for me.
Pitch 4. As Jason mentioned, Yates Screamers work well here. I followed this pitch and would not hesitate to call it 5.8/5.9. It's the typical South Platte runout on manky 1/4" bolts with the tin can hangers. A very long pitch. Good job, Pete.
Pitch 5. From the anchor, I traversed left protecting the traverse with small cams until I was under the hand crack that passes through a small bulge above. Climb the hand crack(5.8+/5.9), follow the crack until you are able to traverse left on broken rock, using long runners throughout the pitch(serious rope drag here). Take the path of least resistance and climb to a 'shelf'/slab below the summit.
Pitch 6. Climb to the summit over easy slab/crack.
Descend climber's right and follow cairns until you are at the bottom of the rock. The cairns disappear, so watch closely and be careful not to overshoot the descent.
Classic. Cracks, dihedrals, traverses, slabs, exposure, position. A brilliant climb in an awesome setting.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Jun 30, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
The bolts on the pitch after the crux are scary! I clipped them both with screamers but this did not inspire much confidence. Getting to the first bolt on this pitch is a little hairy. You will certainly impact the belay ledge (10') below if you fall on the moves just below the bolt. Otherwise, a very enjoyable route.
|By Kevin Stricker|
From: Evergreen, CO
Aug 19, 2009
The challenge with rebolting on Wigwam is that it is in Lost Creek Wilderness, so no power drills allowed. Also there is not an obvious easy way to get down to these anchors from above due to the summit roofs. If someone is interested in the undertaking, email me and I can set you up with some ASCA bolts and hangers, although the 12mm Triplex I usually use take 30+ minutes each to hand drill in granite.
|By Mike Slavens|
From: Denver, Co
Aug 24, 2009
The two 1/4" bolts protecting the 5.9 pitch have been redrilled with 3/8" stainless steel Fixe bolts and Fixe hangers.
My dad and I drilled them on 08-24-09 by hand.
The old bolts and hangers were not removed due to difficulty pulling them (they are in there pretty solid) and time constraints as we were moving slow. Currently we do not have plans to return to pull the old bolts.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thanks for replacing the bolts!
|By David Hodges|
From: Parker, Colorado
Sep 27, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I think it is worth pointing out that the HUGE flake on the 2nd pitch is very loose. This is the flake just before the large roof turns back to the right. The flake is at least 10'x10'and wobbles like a diving board, I would highly recommend just staying in the corner and avoiding this flake all together. If not linking 2 and 3 will keep the flake from hitting the belayer if the leader should knock it down.
|By Luke Clarke|
Oct 26, 2009
Highly recommend the Lady Slipper start. The grungy looking hand crack is actually nice inside where you're jamming. The bolted second pitch is good for your head. Lead it and the run out Pitch 5 will feel easier. I want to do this one again already it so fine.
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
If you go w/Option A above, you will either do the big roof in 2 pitches using the bolted belay 1/4 of the way through it or do the whole thing as one pitch with a little simulclimbing.
The anchors at the end of the roof (the belay below the crux pitch) is the worst belay on the route- 2 bolts, one Star Driven and who knows what the other is. Good gear options are available to back this up. All other belay anchors and protection bolts are great (final belay is one awesome bolt and 2 buttonhead/leepers but that one bolt is great!).
The crux sure ain't like most ".10-" (as per topo) pitches you come across these days. Super cool.
I'm curious as to how others finish this fantastic route.
We stuck to the topo more or less after the last bolted belay at the top of the 5.5/7ish (rating varies from description above and topo) arching crack. We went left and up from the 3 bolt belay but avoided the ".8 hand" (on topo) portion due to a lack of tape and intestinal fortitude in the face of that skin hungry crack. We ziged right below the ".8 crack" which was engaging for both leader and second and zaged back left to belay where the big boulder and the overhanging face meet. The topo showed going up there and seemed pretty casual about it but we found the moves a bit exciting.
Personally I felt lucky to be climbing with a self proclaimed boulderer who thought pro 3 feet off the ground on a 12 foot "problem" was way cool (Way to go, Andrew!). It was the last few moves to the top but sure was in your face for a sec. Cool end to a cool route, but if you go that way you sure can't relax until it's all over.
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Best route in CO.
P4 as noted here is not 5.7. It doesn't become 5.7 until AFTER the scary bolts above the anchor at the top of the 5.10 pitch.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 6, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Best route I've done in CO. The flake under the arch is kind of scary but easy to be gentle on. I thought the pitches after the first arch but before the second (where you go left again) were pretty awesome although the runout "5.9" section felt pretty similar in difficulty to the 5.10 section. Falling there would be a bad idea. If you didn't hit the ledge with the belay bolts, you'd certainly have a bad road rash.
Either way the way we broke down the pitches were:
Combine P1 & P2 (bad rope drag for my partner) we started a ways left of the arch in bushy cracks.
Combine P4 & P5.
Five pitches of stellar flakes and slab. Such cool area to spend a few days in.
Mar 25, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bring a 70! Major shenanigans required to rap this route with a 60, and doubles wouldn't be much better. The walkoff may be the way to go. Red C4 and red C3 on the crux pitch. Quality route in a gorgeous setting - the view is absolutely incredible.
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Through the other comments, it was not clear if we would encounter any 1/4" bolts or not. All bolts on the crux pitch and the following runout pitch were shiny half inch with good hangers except for one of the anchor bolts before the 5.10 section that can easily be backed up with a small nut.
That said, the runout to the first bolt on the pitch is no joke. For reference, a "regular" sport climb would have had 2 more bolts from the anchors to that one. That is all part of the Splatte adventure we love about scaring the crap out of ourselves though! Either bail or man up. It was solid friction 5.9 to get it, and it is very possible you will deck on that belay ledge if you fell on the way up. I stayed right and then traversed left about halfway to the bolt. I would not have wanted to lead that on a windy day.
Caution: A 60m rope will not reach from the anchors above the crux pitch to the last anchors. It got me about 15' short. Better to make an intermediate anchor if doing that way or just link the crux with the runout pitch and set an anchor at the first good spot.
As said in other comments, walk off to the climber's right.
|By David Appelhans|
May 31, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I led the direct start first pitch (option B), in terrible hangdog form. The 1/4 inchers are not confidence inspiring (didn't fall on them), but they aren't that bad, and the rest of the pitch takes gear. The arching crack is harder than it looks, has kinda dirty feet, and is hard to see your gear when you are placing it (but the gear is good). I'd rate this option 5.11 rather than 5.10X.
With a 70m rope, we did the climb in 4 pitches. For our 3rd pitch, I led the crux and continued beyond past an anchor and two bolts (5.9) to a gear belay 50 ft up a left-leaning crack (5.6). One more pitch from there meandered to the summit. A downclimb to climber's left led to a rap tree for a short single rope rap and then a gully deposited us back at our packs.
|By Mike McKinnon|
From: Golden, CO
Jun 4, 2013
I was going to do this on Friday. Have all the 1/4" been replaced or just the ones after the crux pitch?
|By Kat A|
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Sep 2, 2013
Rating- SPlatte solid 5.10a/b, with a 5.8/5.9 R pitch.
Rack - set of stoppers plus doubles from blue alien to #4 Camalot worked well for us (you could leave the #4 behind but we did use it a couple of places).
Weather - climb early, climb fast. Storms move in quickly.
Bolts - most all have been replaced (thanks to those who updated the bolts!); only one anchor had older bolts.
P1 - ca 5.6; the standard start isn't much to write home about, 35m to the bolt anchor left of the beautiful dihedral.
P2-P3 - ca. 5.7; do NOT combine with a 70m rope unless you simul-climb (the start of P2 is relatively easy, so if you choose to simul, it isn't so bad). Beautiful climbing on these two pitches, with a 2-bolt anchor between them just as the rock gets steeper.
P4 - 5.10a/b; you can supplement the bolts with gear - a red or green Camalot, plus a blue or green Alien was nice. We did not link P4-P5 due to rope drag (w/gear, the rope moved R then up and over the bulge on which you can belay).
P5 - 5.8/5.9 R rated in my opinion. Do not fall! 1st bolt is high; 2nd bolt is well above the first, and no other gear is available until well past the 2nd bolt (though it does become lower angle eventually). My partner asked if there was a bolt that I didn't see. Nope - there are only 2 bolts.
P6 - 5.7 Seemed pretty cruiser up the left angling dihedral; only slightly spicy from where the dihedral crack ends to the new 2 bolt anchor (yellow alien in horizontal crack between).
P7 - 5.8 if you choose the correct line. Though an older topo indicates "scary to second," we felt the initial traverse wasn't so bad with small-medium Camalots in the horizontal crack. After traversing left, move up and over a low-angle slab (not much pro) to a wide crack, which didn't seem very difficult. *After the wide crack, don't go straight back to the large dihedral - angle left then up* If you find yourself at a wide dihedral, there are three options that look substantially harder than 5.9: 1) Steep face climb L of dihedral; 2) Steep off-width through dihedral (large Big bro sized); 3) Bat-ridden steep crack w/guano R of dihedral. Maybe you could take one of these, but we instead chose to reverse back ca 15-20', move left, up and over to easier terrain (essentially we looped around and found ourselves above that large dihedral via 5.8 terrain).
P7/8 (depending on where you belay) - Low angle slab/crack climbing puts you on top of the formation. Large cams (#3-#4) in the horizontal crack were useful for a belay, or you can keep moving back to the trees (depending on rope drag).
Walk-off to the right wasn't too difficult to discern, though the trail is overgrown in places with the plants. Don't cut right too early or you can get cliffed out on the slabs. Some cairns along the way.