Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Echo Rock - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belgian Chongo T 
British Airways T 
Feets Don't Fail Me Now T 
London Calling T 
Moment's Notice T 
My Idea of Fun S 
Nuts are for Men Without Balls T 
Pope's Crack T 
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish T 
Primal Scream T 
Raked over the Coles T 
Roof, the T 
Rule Britannia T 
Sonic and the Hot Dog Water S 
Street Sweeper S 
Swept Away T 
T.S. Special T 
Tucker-Powell T 

Raked over the Coles 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rob Raker, Charles Cole, 1983. (Hence the Clever Name)
Page Views: 1,199
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climber finishing up Raked Over the Coles, 5.10+


This excellent crack climb is located about 100 feet right of Pope's Crack. It is first crack (of a series of vertical cracks) that actually reaches the top. The crack that peters out to its left can be used as an alternate start (but why?).

The crux comes early (getting established into the "pod"); after that sustained 5.10 crack leads to a ledge. Descend by rapping off the 2 bolt anchor atop British Airways.


Cams from 0.5 inch to 2 inch. Protection is generally good, though you have to do a few moves at the bottom to get your first piece in.

Photos of Raked over the Coles Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Raked Over The Coles". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Raked Over The Coles". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Raked over the Coles Add Comment
Show which comments
By Murf
Feb 4, 2003

I start this route in both the left and right cracks. Either small cam or brass to protect the start ( can't recall right now ). Feels beefy for .10d, was initially intimidated by a third hand story of a climber breaking their femur on the route ( big bone, hard to do! ).
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun and unique- good stemming and lie-backing off of sometimes rounded holds. Personally, I wouldn't call the gear excellent... didn't you have a little trouble getting a secure stance to place it?
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 24, 2004

Outstanding climb. Surprisingly sustained. The final slab on the "direct finish" has a significant pucker factor.
By Nick Sullens
From: Mt Shasta
Feb 10, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I went up the right crack, had some decking potential while standing up in the pod until I got a good piece from the pod stance. Spicy.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!