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 ADVANCED
The North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 
Bird's Nest T 
Childs Play T 
Exiles in Babylon T,S 
Generation X T,TR 
Jack The Ripper T 
Kiddy Crack T 
Knights in White Satin S 
Liger, The T 
Mantleshelf Problem T 
Merrill's Variation T 
Possessed, The T 
Post Mortem T,S 
Raising The Roof T 
Recluse T 
Recluse Traverse T 
Roof aka The Corner, The T 
Slot, The T 
They Died Laughing T 
Thresher T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Raising The Roof 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: August 2006 - George Hurley, Chris Noonan
Page Views: 816
Submitted By: Ian Wauchope on Apr 5, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Raising The Roof 5.9 P.3

Description 

This climb is an extension of The Roof and provides you with a nice 3-pitch climb.

Pitch 1: Climb The Roof as usual. As you come up to the roof continue climbing for about 25' up it's right side in a moderate corner to a ledge. You can setup a gear-belay in the corner here where you can see your second, rappel from a tree on the right, or continue up the corner to the large Unicorn ledge.

Pitch 2: Continue up the corner or step right & climb up a small buttress (awkward) to the big Unicorn Ledge. Belay from a 2-bolt anchor on the left side of the ledge.

Pitch 3: Start just left of the belay at a blocky corner. Climb straight up a series of corners to some arching grooves. Move right (crux) and follow the 3 bolts up to a hand-sized horizontal crack. High-step into the horizontal and make a thin move (crux) to the 2 bolt anchor below a steep slab. Rappel from here or climb the final unprotected mossy slab for 25-30 feet to the trees at the top of the cliff.


Descent: Rappel from the 2-bolt anchors to the ledge at the finish of the North End climbs. Walk left and rappel from a tree just above Recluse.

Location 

Look for a large corner capped by a roof on the left side of the North End. It's 20' left of The Slot.

Protection 

standard rack to a #3 Camelot


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By chinos
Apr 14, 2012

this climb can be done as 2 pitches as well...
By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Jul 14, 2012

Definitely a Cathedral "9"! :) Good pump factor for sure.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jul 16, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't george clean and maybe add a bolt to the unicorn corner for a .9 crack pitch? Liger? Pretty good climbing.
By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Jul 17, 2012

Hi Jon! He did, it is a 10a called the Liger.
By Skarvinko
From: Arlington, MA
Jul 22, 2013

I'd second making this into 2 pitch climb... I also enjoyed a nice no hands stance at off the roof (height dependant).
By Sprax Lines
From: Brookline, MA
Jul 23, 2014

Beware of the poison ivy on the ledge at the base of P3 and the Liger. As of July 12, it looked like somebody had previously cleared it from the area just below the rap rings, but it is growing back. The vines are 2 or 3 feet tall. What is the best long term solution -- spraying the leaves with some herbicide?