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Rainy Day Women 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,373
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Somewhere around the crux.

Description 

The leftmost of 3 cracks. Fun, but fairly unmemorable.

Protection 

Light rack.


Photos of Rainy Day Women Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff Crow approaches the top on Rainy Day Women.
Jeff Crow approaches the top on Rainy Day Women.
Valarie on Rainey Day Women.
Valarie on Rainey Day Women.
"Rainy Day Women #12 And 35" is the first track on the 1966 Blonde on Blonde release.
"Rainy Day Women #12 And 35" is the firs...
Tyson Dimmitt makes a late afternoon run up Rainy Day Woman on Mindless Mound.
Tyson Dimmitt makes a late afternoon run up Rainy ...
Starting the crux of Rainy Day Women <br /> <br />photo by Chris Lane
Starting the crux of Rainy Day Women photo by Chr...
Chris leads, Fred belay, Scott shoots pictures.
Chris leads, Fred belay, Scott shoots pictures.

Comments on Rainy Day Women Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 29, 2013
By Dave Cox
Jan 19, 2006

I stayed in the left crack the whole way but stepped out left near the top to a jug. Felt 5.8 done this way. Fun route.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 19, 2006

Another Bob Dylan song from the 1966 Blonde on Blonde album.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Vogel and others list this climb as the right crack, not the left. Fun but short. Great flaring crux!
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 16, 2007

I've climbed both these routes this season. the route names are switched in Vogels new guide?

I found the left crack to be easier than the right.
5.8? maybe, my friend thought they were a tad harder than 5.7
By Randy
Apr 19, 2007

Actually, the guide (Joshua Tree West) lists Rainy Day Women as the left route.
By Mark L
Apr 30, 2007

Sadly had to weight the gear on this one from getting pumped at the crux flare near the top - I got myopic wanting to jam something in front of me but didnt realize there was a sidepull off a crimper to the left. Smears or stemming for feet, some jams and locks with face/a jug at the top. Easy shimmy down back and left. I would say the crux was 5.8 and 5.7 for the lower part.
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Feb 3, 2009

I just climbed this route Feb. 1st or so. The guide book listed a Class 2 downclimb descending a gully to the climbers right. When I got to the top and went for the downclimb, it had a large 9ft tall boulder blocking the downclimb chute. I assume it fell down from the top recently. It can be climbed by stemming the chute walls and working it like a chimney down the other side but the drop off on the other side of the new boulder is a good 12ft down. So have those chimney skills dialed or your looking at a broken leg. I left a sling girthed around a large rock for a rappel but I'm sure it's part of someones rack by now.
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 27, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Also not a very good route, although its nice on colder days since it faces south. The crux is definitely the flaring crack section, which will make you look around for good holds on the face. In general, I would avoid this formation for good routes elsewhere.
By maggie-girl
Mar 6, 2012

Little exposed on the start-- ground anchor was nice. Fun flaring-hands through the crux with bomber feet the whole way! Face holds keep this climb 5.7. Love the easy decent! Short little scramble over and around without exposure.
By Canon
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Meh. 2 move wonder.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 6, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

So is this the right or the left crack?

I'm talking about the RIGHT crack in this comment.
Good route, in the sun if there is sun, and somewhat interesting climbing on nice features. No big mystery, just plug some cams or med nuts and work your way up. Crux is probably near the top, but no section has anything like a shutdown move. The summit anchors will take almost anything, but stuff in the 2" range seem to work best. Probably belay on top unless you are all fancy and do an extended anchor type thing to set up a slingshot.

To walk off go up and over the back of the formation and scramble down to climbers left. Not hard, not sketch, and will pop you out down near the base of the left hand route.
By kenr
Jan 29, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

For the Left crack:
Not for the beginning Crack leader.
My partner and I both thought the crux was at least as hard as any move on Sail Away (which we did three days before).
For me the crux move was a combination of tenuous jam, tenuous layback, tenuous feet -- which all taken together were enough to hold the move. So for physical strength perhaps it's no more than 7, but for technical mastery and mental creativity + staying-cool-on-Lead maybe it's 8+

For an experienced crack climber who is accustomed to mixing jamming with other techniques, this route offers some thoughtful variety. For someone looking to exercise their finger and hand jams, well that's just one of the starting points.

The descent is non-difficult class 3. Which also applies to scrambling up to the top to set up a Top-Rope for the route (in case the above comments scared anyone off from leading it). We found it straightforward to set up for Top-Roping off the same anchor both this route and the other one (Maggie's Farm).