Like the DoDo bird and the 8-track cassette, 5.9+'s on Lumpy and Eldo seem to becoming extinct. Take the flake and thin crack that parallels Checkerboard Crack to the right. Stellar and sustained from start to finish, with a little R faceclimbing in the middle, is definitely harder than 5.9. Finish on Checkerboard Crack's 2nd pitch.
Typical Lumpy rack: RPs to 3 inch.
Higher up on P1. The S part is just above this sha...
Allen Light approaching Surrey Ledge.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 23, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
...Good route. 1st half is a bit harder than Checkerboard Crack. Looks easy but isn't. When the flake ends, if you're tall you can reach the next flake, else it's a one move of S. Move left from the top of the pillar (fixed slings on pillar) for a couple moves up a thin crack (same as Checkerboard Crack) and then right across a slab at about 5.9 to a good belay. Or, move up and right from the pillar with no pro to the same belay.
Second pitch has decent gear, but it can be hard to place. Brass, microcams. Hand-sized cam near the top. You are often out on the right "arete" and have to lean left to place the gear.
Rather than go to the top, we usually traverse left on the ledge (protect the second) and then down to the bolts above Ziggie's Brother Hank. In fact, the leader of pitch 2 can traverse to the bolts and lower to the ground.
|By S. Kimball|
Jul 3, 2004
...this is not done in 3?? pitches. From the ground, easily to Surrey Ledge in 1. Also the moves to the flake 1st. 1/2 pitch #1 are not run out?? all good pro.
|By Roger Wiegand|
Jan 30, 2006
I climbed Rainy Day Woman in August 2005 with Dave Erickson. I had not done it for many years, and the section about 20 feet above the ground is now the crux of the climb. This section used be awkward 5.8, as I recall, and the 5.9+ crux used to be the last 20 feet of the pitch. I think a chockstone must have come out of the crack, or perhaps a crucial hold on the face to the left has disappeared. Anyway, I concur with the 5.10 rating for the climb as it is now.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 23, 2006
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hmmm. I thought the crux was just before the Surrey Ledge and so did my partner. Probably 5.10 there, but certainly height-dependent. The climb is a little sparse on gear in spots and merits a cautionary note.