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 ADVANCED
Tumbling Rainbow Formation
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Army Armstrong T 
Days of Thunder T 
Don't Look A Gift Frog In The Mouth T 
Fisticuffs T 
Rainy Day, Dream Away T 
Run For Your Life T 
Runaway S 
Tales of Brave Ulysses T 
Tic Tic Boom S 
Tonic Boom S 
Tumbling Rainbow T 
Two Stage T 

Rainy Day, Dream Away 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA (Aid): Dave Evans and Jim Angione 1/78 FFA (TR) John Bachar, Kevin Powell & Mari Gingery 1979 FL: Russ Raffa 1979
Page Views: 1,291
Submitted By: C Miller on Nov 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Rainy Day, Dream Away

Description 

This is a fantastic line up the obvious right-facing corner system right of Tumbling Rainbow (5.9). A short section of thin crack leads past a bolt (crux) and then into the shallow corner system above.

The protection is adequate, provided one has a good selection of thin gear, as well as the endurance to hang out and place it on this continuously challenging route. Not done too often, but that actually works to your advantage, as there's probably no waiting to be done on this route. Three out of five stars.

Protection 

bolt (3/8"), gear to 1.5" including small wires


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By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 14, 2002

Originally led without the bolt, which was added later when Tic Tic Boom was climbed. See the comments for Tic Tic Boom for the lowdown.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Dec 19, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Indeed, rarely done.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Jan 24, 2008

With the bolt, is this a well protected route?
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 24, 2008

Scotty, I followed this last winter and here's what I remember: The crux is very low, at about the 12' level, but you're starting off the top of a mini pillar (i.e. don't fall before the first piece or it would be ugly). It protects ok with multiple small wires (brass and/or offset helpful) entering he crux, not ideal, but good enough. Leader fell on that gear IIRC. Above the slightly awkward/tricky but short crux the climbing and gear is easier and much more straightforward, although somewhat steep after it turns the corner onto the right side face. Protection is good above the crux with wires and cams, you just have to hang out a bit to place it and it's a little spaced.
By Randy
Jan 25, 2008

Here is the scoop. The bottom has good thin gear which leads to the bolt. The crux is protected by the bolt. Above, you can follow the original line up and angling slightly right along a shallow crack system. A better finish is to head back left from the shallow crack onto the arete which is 5.10a/b (Called Days of Thunder) and protected by 3 bolts. Two bolt anchor/rap.