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 ADVANCED
South Faces
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Awsome Arete S 
Choss to Treasure S 
Dihedral Dance T 
Mark it Zero! T,TR 
Rainday S 

Rainday 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 742
Submitted By: TravisMelin on May 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Remo to the jug!

No longer private property. See below.

Description 

Nice face route, fairly sustained. The crux is right at the top. You can clip the anchors of the crux holds if your tall, or its a couple more tough moves to gain the ledge.

Location 

To find this you have to do a short scramble up and left from the base of the mixed route to just beneath a pine tree.

Protection 

6 bolts, webbing and rap ring anchor.


Photos of Rainday Slideshow Add Photo
Reinke on Rainday
Reinke on Rainday
Rhoads at the 2nd bolt.
Rhoads at the 2nd bolt.
SteveZ moving up into the crux.
SteveZ moving up into the crux.
Rhoads at the upper crux.
Rhoads at the upper crux.
Remo.
Remo.
Knapp on Rainday
Knapp on Rainday

Comments on Rainday Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Jun 24, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I think this is the face route just left of Awesome Arete (which is not mixed). Mixed route is the 5.10 in the dihedral.
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Oct 16, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

11- to a nice technical crux. Would be nice to bring a saw to do a little tree trimming. Not sure my partner enjoyed the elevator ride through the pine tree as I fell :)
By Tradoholic
Aug 4, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The anchor for this is a mess of old rope and a wire secured with clamps. I have a chain to put on and I will do so next time I'm here.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This climb is a little gem. The rock quality and the movement are really good.
By Tradoholic
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Fun, easy 5.11 balance climbing until the last moves, a powerful layback with an interesting sequence.

Can we rename this "Rainday"? In honor of today and to make it easier to refer to ;)

I also put new chains on the anchor.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 1, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Quality route. I definitely think this is harder than Kingdom Come... or that route is soft but that's not true so this is definitely 12b. Great crux moves!
By Tradoholic
Nov 24, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I trimmed the tree today, much cleaner falls.
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Maybe the best 12 at castle rock - fun technical boulder problem at the top. Thanks for replacing the manky anchor setup! Your welcome for packing out the old anchor setup left at the base of the climb :)
By Tradoholic
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Thanks Chris, not sure why I left that there, I must have forgotten. Usually I pack out a bag of trash everytime I go.

This is a great climb, but I can't say I enjoy getting smacked in the face with the hardest moves right at the top, hence 3 out of 4 stars.
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

No worries, thanks again for replacing with chains. The old anchor setup looked rough!

It is worth bringing a trash bag when you climb at castle rock. Lots of beer cans and trash.