Rainbows and Unicorns
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Jim Hurst (bolted), Lance Waring (FFA) |
Page Views: | 859 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Patricio Vyhmeister on Jul 23, 2014 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the first route on the left side wall (the side with a steep ground), it goes through a roof.
This route starts about 20 feet to the right of Ar'vi Donc. It is a fun route, however, a bit contrived, as it is much easier if you us the dihedral (and all of its subsequent holds) all the way up to the chains. Pull the first roof on massive jugs, and either use the face holds (more difficult) or stem to the holds on the dihedral to get to the second roof. You can either use the finger cracks to pull the second roof or use the massive ledge out right to gain the next section of the climb. Climb to the anchors on edges, sidepulls, and slimpers. This climb has been led, and could still be, safely on gear, with a bit of a runout at the top. It is probably in the PG-13 range. When Mill Creek Wall is wet, this climb is soaked for days.
This route starts about 20 feet to the right of Ar'vi Donc. It is a fun route, however, a bit contrived, as it is much easier if you us the dihedral (and all of its subsequent holds) all the way up to the chains. Pull the first roof on massive jugs, and either use the face holds (more difficult) or stem to the holds on the dihedral to get to the second roof. You can either use the finger cracks to pull the second roof or use the massive ledge out right to gain the next section of the climb. Climb to the anchors on edges, sidepulls, and slimpers. This climb has been led, and could still be, safely on gear, with a bit of a runout at the top. It is probably in the PG-13 range. When Mill Creek Wall is wet, this climb is soaked for days.
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