Rainbow 

FA - Tom Bowker

In the process of being retroed with permission of Mr. Bowker. The bolts are in, but still needs some cleaning (as of late Nov07)

Climbs to the left of Men in White Suites following eyebolts up a steep section to a lower angled face/left leaning corner with interesting holds. Nice climbing with easier versions of the moves that make Rumney climbing so interesting. A kneebar can be had before pulling around the arete onto the steep face.

i will check out the route and update my description...

This was actually quite enjoyable. It's retro-bolted and ends at some glue-in bolts. We started on the ledge, slightly to the left of Rainbow. The top slab leads to a fun view of the waterfall... but bring your spider web wand or have your friend lead it first. :)

Hey Lee just noticed that this route is still posted as trad, maybe want to change it to sport now that it has been retro bolted, the anchors are two glue ins. perhaps to encourage rapping of the routes in rumney. just figured i would give you a heads up on the change

i updated the whole description.... thanks for the reminder...

I agree with lee there are a lot better moderates in the area, right around the corner there is Dirtigo and the Wimpy-Gilman Ridge and there are plenty others, but this route does serve a purpose, and that purpose is to make another moderate in the area for over crowding.

...Lee it is completely retroed now so i don't think you need any trad gear on this route...

dang matt you catch me for everything... haha... i fixed it

I've only been on it once. Do you know if there is any potential for continuing past the anchors up and around the corner to Wimpy or Mogli?

I dont know if that is possible, but that would be cool I will haave to check it out next time i am out there

I know if you lowered off of whimpy gilman the rope would run over sharp edges...

F.A. Tom Bowker and Jay Golden. These guys brought me out to show off this new climb and I led it. Thought then it wasn't worth while because the original way went left of all the steep sections. Free soloed it recently and followed the bolted line. It is now worth while and the top off right of the rappel bolts was exciting. Original line had one 5.5 move on it. Now there more moves at this grade and the finish may be 5.7. There used to be a forest walk off. Its gone because of the great fire. Now smooth white rock slabs, fallen trees and some briers. Rapping down is better

Did the anchors on this ever get quicklinks, or are they still bare glue-ins?

They are still just bare glue-ins.

Thanks. That has to get fixed. In the mean time, please rap from the anchors when you are done to save wear on the eyebolts. They can't be easely replaced like quicklinks.

If I were to procure a number of 3/8" and 1/2" q-links, is there someone I can give them to who will see it to all anchors deserving them get two pairs? Frankly, for Rumney ("my home crag"), I rather give h/w than cash after my two e-mails to the RCA requesting to be involved got nothing back except deafening silence.

I would think your best bet would be Smittie or Tim Sr., Soon. I know Tim puts a lot of work into replacing hardware and Smittie seems to get up there regularly and is generous with his time.

A great easy route to get on if the stuff on armed and dangerous area is busy. Nice easy jugs at the beginning and some great slab moves that might be just a little bit harder than 5.6.

Sufficiently fun at the grade. Ideally, it should be led, cleaned on TR, then the TR-er should rap.

Cleaning on rappel is not terribly fun, efficient, or otherwise pleasant for your rope. I would suggest a prussik/autoblock to allow some traversing and moving to get to the middle bolts because of the roof.