|Indecent Exposure Buttress
|See notes for Hueco Tanks Access MORE INFO >>>|
Some areas require a guide.
The first pitch is perhaps the most fun .10+/.11- on the Front Side. The second pitch is 5.9. The last is "one of the wildest pitches at Hueco Tanks", 5.11r. (Sherman, Head, Crump, Head, 1991)
Pitch one starts in an open, grassy, area below the oak tree and cave ledge of Tree Crack. Follow six bolts up right on clean gray rock and along a bolted right leaning crack. After connecting with Deliverance, #2 and #3 Camalots are nice for protecting the 5.9 crack to the belay bolts. It is a 25 meter rappel off from here. (Now your set to top rope Deliverance)
Pitch two starts with a 5.8/5.9 step right onto a black rib. 50 feet up to the belay bolts. Small stoppers are useful on this pitch. (Paul Piana, 1992)
Pitch three climbs the overhung buttress right of Indecent Exposure. Move right off the ledge, then up to the first of two bolts. Move right to the second bolt and a rest. Next move up to a bulge and pass it on the left. After the bulge, climb straight up easier rock to the summit.
Walk the road past the Mushroom Boulder restrooms and take the trail into the Deliverance Boulders. Then follow the cliff left (north), high-stepping up some easy talus. Before reaching the Tree Crack/Indecent Exposure belay zone, spot a line of bolts in gray rock that angle up right.
In addition to the #2 and #3 Camalots for the end of pitch one, my notes tell me to bring a .75 Camalot and steel nuts too.