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FA: | D. Breashears, A. Greene, 1975 |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
About 40 feet up the hill on the West side of the Bastille, just down from the West Buttress, find a reasonable chalked line ascending up and left to a series of two chunky overhangs. Climb up to the center of the first of these, then move hard left and up past the left side of the second of the two, placing a few cams in under the rooves in horizontals on the way. Clip some fixed gear and move up and right towards a few bolts. The climbing changes here from big moves between big holds at odd angles to big moves between smaller holds at better angles. The climb would be made hardest by forcing a line straight up to the anchor past both bolts, but a side-step here and there makes it feel more like 10a/b.
After clipping the second bolt, step left and ride the face/slab to the anchors above. If you want to descend on a single rope, taks a 60M or longer and rap to the right (uphill). If you have two ropes to descend and have not had enough cimbing, go up an additional 25' to a second set of anchors (5.7). One can traverse to the south from there (5.4) and continue on The West Buttress (5.9 WIDE). The final pitch can finish on The West Buttress(5.7), Hair City (5.9), or the West Face (5.9).
After clipping the second bolt, step left and ride the face/slab to the anchors above. If you want to descend on a single rope, taks a 60M or longer and rap to the right (uphill). If you have two ropes to descend and have not had enough cimbing, go up an additional 25' to a second set of anchors (5.7). One can traverse to the south from there (5.4) and continue on The West Buttress (5.9 WIDE). The final pitch can finish on The West Buttress(5.7), Hair City (5.9), or the West Face (5.9).
Protection
Take a standard rack with cams to 3.5".
The protection is tricky in spots. For the first crux (10d), underclinging left under a roof there are a few so-so cams to be placed in an uneven crack. For the second crux (10d, or easier), you have a bolt just below you. Some say this is S, but the bolt is not far away. The face above is certainly runout, but the grade is closer to 5.8 by the time you are far from the bolts. The route could produce some real thumper falls, and someone could get hurt. This route should not be taken lightly.
The protection is tricky in spots. For the first crux (10d), underclinging left under a roof there are a few so-so cams to be placed in an uneven crack. For the second crux (10d, or easier), you have a bolt just below you. Some say this is S, but the bolt is not far away. The face above is certainly runout, but the grade is closer to 5.8 by the time you are far from the bolts. The route could produce some real thumper falls, and someone could get hurt. This route should not be taken lightly.
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