Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
FA: | Deb Thompson & L Paik? |
Page Views: | 605 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jul 7, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a pitch used to exit off the arete when rain and hail made dinking around with trying to thread a tight slot less ideal of an option. Certainly it has an adventurous feel with a fair potential for rope drag. I don't recommend linking this with the right-facing dihedral. Also, I don't know that most will call it a worthwhile line, but it seemed a reasonable way off the rock given the day, and there are some bits of enjoyable climbing. About a dozen of the most precarious blocks have been cleared off, but there is still friable rock.
Start going right on easy terrain on an obvious ledge system. Go around a corner into a cave of sorts. Traverse out the right side on jugs (some loose) to a crack with a #0.75 Camalot/#12 BD crack. Face climb up and left, then up, then left around an arete, then up and right up a groove. Continue up for a so-so green Alien placement. Downclimb around a large flake, traverse right ~20', then up a groove to a medium-sized tree. Belay. Downclimb off the ledge. Pick the skier's left for easier terrain instead of down a vegetated downclimb at the end.
The name comes from the conditions inspiring the climb.
It is the yellow dotted line in the photo.
Start going right on easy terrain on an obvious ledge system. Go around a corner into a cave of sorts. Traverse out the right side on jugs (some loose) to a crack with a #0.75 Camalot/#12 BD crack. Face climb up and left, then up, then left around an arete, then up and right up a groove. Continue up for a so-so green Alien placement. Downclimb around a large flake, traverse right ~20', then up a groove to a medium-sized tree. Belay. Downclimb off the ledge. Pick the skier's left for easier terrain instead of down a vegetated downclimb at the end.
The name comes from the conditions inspiring the climb.
It is the yellow dotted line in the photo.
Location
From the anchor near the top of the arete, Ryan's Song, and the right-facing dihedral, traverse an obvious ledge system until you find a reasonable section of face climbing to gain the ledge above.
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