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Rain Man 
Ryan's Song 

Rain Man 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Deb Thompson & L Paik?
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 7, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: The yellow dots are the pitch. The blue dots are ...
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Description 

This is a pitch used to exit off the arete when rain and hail made dinking around with trying to thread a tight slot less ideal of an option. Certainly it has an adventurous feel with a fair potential for rope drag. I don't recommend linking this with the right-facing dihedral. Also, I don't know that most will call it a worthwhile line, but it seemed a reasonable way off the rock given the day, and there are some bits of enjoyable climbing. About a dozen of the most precarious blocks have been cleared off, but there is still friable rock.

Start going right on easy terrain on an obvious ledge system. Go around a corner into a cave of sorts. Traverse out the right side on jugs (some loose) to a crack with a #0.75 Camalot/#12 BD crack. Face climb up and left, then up, then left around an arete, then up and right up a groove. Continue up for a so-so green Alien placement. Downclimb around a large flake, traverse right ~20', then up a groove to a medium-sized tree. Belay. Downclimb off the ledge. Pick the skier's left for easier terrain instead of down a vegetated downclimb at the end.

The name comes from the conditions inspiring the climb.

It is the yellow dotted line in the photo.


Location 

From the anchor near the top of the arete, Ryan's Song, and the right-facing dihedral, traverse an obvious ledge system until you find a reasonable section of face climbing to gain the ledge above.


Protection 

Lots of longer slings are imperative to reduce rope drag. A few large wires, green Alien to #3 Camalot.



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