Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
FA: | Hans Solo |
Page Views: | 1,518 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | nbrown on Apr 2, 2014 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
All routes between and including Groove Thang and Baynes Corner are closed. No camping or foot traffic below the cliff in this section.
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Description
A good new route that has some surprisingly good holds. Probably the best warm up on the wall but still a bit spicy in places. More of a 5.10 for a 5.11 climber. Can be done in one long pitch, especially if using doubles, or in two short pitches.
Note: The upper section climbs just right of a prominent wet streak, but the route is unaffected.
Start same as for Native Dance/Invasive Species and climb about 30 feet up before moving left into flakes and past some vegetation on easy ground. From here move up to the wide left facing corner and get some gear (#4). Move up and right through overlaps to clip the bolt from jugs. Cruxy moves up will gain a stance and the eyebrow-laced face above. Follow the path of least resistance up and slightly left to the optional belay on nuts/cams. From here climb around the bulge and onto good ledge/flake above. Continue up the streak (save a #1 camelot for here) past mildly spicy pro to the double bolt anchor on the ledge near the top. The wall above the anchors is typically wet so rap from here.
To rappel with single line, rap down and right to thread on Native Dance. This also keeps your ropes out of the water to the left.
Note: The upper section climbs just right of a prominent wet streak, but the route is unaffected.
Start same as for Native Dance/Invasive Species and climb about 30 feet up before moving left into flakes and past some vegetation on easy ground. From here move up to the wide left facing corner and get some gear (#4). Move up and right through overlaps to clip the bolt from jugs. Cruxy moves up will gain a stance and the eyebrow-laced face above. Follow the path of least resistance up and slightly left to the optional belay on nuts/cams. From here climb around the bulge and onto good ledge/flake above. Continue up the streak (save a #1 camelot for here) past mildly spicy pro to the double bolt anchor on the ledge near the top. The wall above the anchors is typically wet so rap from here.
To rappel with single line, rap down and right to thread on Native Dance. This also keeps your ropes out of the water to the left.
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