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The Goose
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Raging Bull (aka Cub) 
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Sweet and Innocent 

Raging Bull (aka Cub) 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard M. Wright, Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder (Dr. ABS)
Page Views: 911
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 21, 2007
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Raging....
  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    This is a steep sport climb that combines pumpy jug moves in the first half, a very thin, technical crux in the middle, and more pumpy and inobvious moves to finish. Some of the holds in the first half appear suspect, but I've done the route three times now and I don't remember ever breaking anything. Despite a bit of loose rock and a less-than-perfect bolt placement at the crux (near your feet for the hardest moves), this is a wonderful Flatirons sport climb.

    A second pitch (5.12b) climbs over a bulge on very small holds.


    Location 

    Steep orange wall near the upper end of the Goose's south face. Start on the Sweet and Innocent corner, step left on a ledge at a small tree about 25 feet up, and clip the first bolt by a gaping undercling flake.


    Protection 

    8 or 9 bolts to anchors. Bring long slings to extend the anchors for toproping. Maybe a few wires or small cams to protect the 30 feet of climbing to the first bolt.



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    By tom selleck
    Oct 26, 2008

    A #3 stopper makes the move to the anchor much more comfortable. A great route in a beautiful setting. Full value 11a.