Ragged Edges 

I climbed this route a couple of years ago and found myself it deep doo doo above the bolts because I didn't have any large cams. I had a most unpleasant runout up the right side of the crack. Take large cams--4 to 5--or the largest tri-cam. I also feel the final moves to the bolts rate 5.9.

Yeah, my pro list means take 1 each of #3-#5 Camalots (including half sizes). However I've never seen anyone lead it with this many big cams, I've never had anything bigger than a #4 on it.

Are there now bolts at the top out? I remember it used to just turn into a series of ledges covered with gravel, and it wasn't clear where to finish the pitch.

Climbed Ragged Edges today. We used up to a pair of #4 Camalots and felt pretty well protected on the second pitch. The only runout, where the crack got a little wider, had good hands. Lots of places for a #2 around the start of pitch two. Nice and shady, the sun went behind the rock at about noon. There are no anchors for the top of the second pitch, I third-classed it up the low angle slabs to a tree and belayed from there with a fair bit of rope drag. The walk-off to the west was quick. I saw more loose holds on this route than I would have liked, but otherwise a fine route on a gorgeous day.

The crux section on pitch one , a beautiful "splitter-like" crack nearing the top of the pitch, takes #2 camalots well. I only had one of two left on my rack by the time I reached the crux ,but I was able to "walk it up" without any problem but ......TO save TWO, #2's ,would be good TO do TOO!

I love this route. it's one of my personal favorites. The rock is so cool!

Climbed this last March and used a few c-4's as well as tried out Trango's mid-range Maxcams to supplement my rack. Liked the fact that the Max Cams fit in areas that my C-4's didn't fit as well.

Sweet route with interesting rock

I took up to one #3.5 old size camalot. I did not feel the route to be scary with that size gear, as the runout part felt easy. I found the crux lower down to be pretty stiff for 5.8 though.

Its unfortunate that the anchor bolts are placed where they are. They come right in the middle of the best section of the climb. Ideally, they should have been placed about 10 feet higher at the end of the splitter fist crack and before the ow section. This would have warranted a four-star pitch.

We only climbed pitch 1 today because we did not have any large cams with us; heed the advice from an earlier post and have two # 2 camelots saved for the splitter crack crux. Makes it super nice and well protected. Brock/McMillan guidebook says pitch one is 5.7 but our party of four thought the crux was 5.8 for sure. Go climb this today; great pro and as good a pitch at the grade there is.

Climbed pitch one but not two. Pitch one has either very nice hand crack climbing if you want to strictly stay to the crack (although it is probably more like 5.9 then with the overhanging bulge) or huge buckets 2-5' to the right which provide rest spots and holds. You could pretty much face climb most of the thing on buckets but that's not why your here. I led by using the crack (mostly perfect hands here and there) for some parts and grabbing the buckets if I wanted a rest for pro. Then on TR it was great hand crack practice, especailyl the last few moves to the bolts on the top of P1.

Pitch one was some very nice climbing, without any big moves. As stated above, you will need some big cams, 5's and 6's, if you climb at this difficulty and want to feel totally protected on the second pitch. We only had one #4 C4, and I had to hunt a bit for a spot small enough to fit it. Using 2 cams in all for the second pitch, I ran out it out pretty far, but because the holds are huge and the climbing easy, I felt comfortable with it. I honestly did not find this route to be any more difficult than the book states. I actually felt that it was easier than climbs that are rated lower.

Fun two pitch climb that requires big cams on the second pitch. Climb up the crack on pitch 1, moving right onto the face about near the tope of the pitch. The crux on Pitch 1 is 1 or 2 moves before the belay station anchors. Stay right, get to the anchor height, then traverse left to the anchors. The crux to the second pitch is the move out from the anchors and onto the face right of the crack. Place a cam or two in the crack before heading out on the face. Runs out near the top, and it's very difficult to hear the climber/belayer at the top when standing at the end of pitch 1.

I think the crack near the first anchor might be getting a touch wider- been over there alot lately, and its definitely #3 camalots just below the bolts now and cupped hands to fists. I seem to recall it being #2s and perfect hands a few years back...but maybe my memory is fuzzy.

Anyway, if you're doing the first pitch only, take a #3 camalot for the last few feet, and if you're going to the top, take a #4 and a #5 if youve got it along with a second #3 and dont stop at the bolts- the whole route is 59m long making it an excellent full value pitch.

Jam and Jug Awesomeness. Only did first pitch cause I was scared to runout second pitch wide crack without a #5 or 6. Route was an very exciting 5.7 lead with great hand jams and a lot of jugs to pull on just when you need it. Leading it seemed like 5.7 with a possible 5.8 move if you stay left at the first small overhang. I set up a top rope and climbed it immediately afterward and it suddenly felt like a pumpy 5.5. Gotta love "LIfe on the sharp end". I'll come back with a few larger BDs or a couple big bros for the second pitch.

Climbed this last weekend and what a fun route. Thought the moves were mostly on the grade but even with a #6 as high as I could get it before it gets really wide, there is a pretty solid runout before you get a small piece on the right. Overall felt more like a 5.8 for a slightly stronger climber. Of the 3 classic 5.8's at RR: Lotta Balls, Red Book, and Ragged Edges, I like this one the best. Great hands on pitch 1 with beautiful featured rock.

On the first pitch looking up at the wide section Submitted By: James Reed on Dec 4, 2012

Above the first belay with good hands before the offwidth. Submitted By: James Reed on Dec 4, 2012

Did P1 only because all we had was a #4 camalot. Worth doing. 2 #2s helped.

Climbed this today with 1 #2, 2 #3's, 1 #3 Helium Friend, 1 #4, and 1 #6 for my bigger pieces. The second pitch was quite runout with this gear, but there were sections with easy climbing, so it didn't feel that scary. Having doubles in #3, #4, and #5 with perhaps some more of the half sizes would be desired for a comfortable climb

The anchor has 3 bolts with 2 rap rings, but the right one is quite worn