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Heeere's Johnny 
Rager's Edge 
Redrum 

Rager's Edge 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Kurilich, Mark Sargent, Phil Baldwin July 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,105
Submitted By: Mark Sgt on Aug 16, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

A mix of Dylan Thomas and Somerset Maugham.

Start about 5 meters up from the start of Grrr-Amp just below a steep arÍte/overhanging corner. Clamber up 15 ft to a flat ledge and reach high (or stickclip) 1st bolt. Gym like moves to big holds beyond the lower crux. From the large ledge after the crux enjoy the fun climbing to the top following the arÍte going left and right, clipping bolts in the 5.9 range. Finish at the same anchor for Grrr-Amp. 11 bolts total. 30 meters


Location 

Start about 5 meters up from the start of Grrr-Amp just below a steep arÍte/overhanging corner.


Protection 

draws



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By Texaswall
From: The Woodlands, TX
Aug 26, 2009

This and the rest of Geezer Wall are well protected and an enjoyable option for "average" climbers, especially on summer mornings. Note that one can rather easily access the Redrum anchors from the this climb. In fact, it's tempting to swing out and share a hold or two with Redrum around the 7th or 8th bolt, but staying left of the arete definitely provides the path of least resistance and insures that the crux remains the opening moves.

By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 20, 2011

Nice rock, fun start, but eases way back. Nonetheless, would repeat.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Worth doing, Eases back after the initial sequence

By BScallout
Aug 4, 2011

Bouldery start with ledge fall potenial until you reach the 3rd bolt. Weird run out (around bolt 4) to a good stance, then you can clip 2 bolts,from the same stance. Strange. Also this should be listed on the Redrum Wall seeing how Redrum is 15 feet to the right.

By Mary Ellen Man
From: Midvale, UT
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Wow this climb was exciting and fun the opening moves were a lot harder than 5.10b considering climbs on challange buttress and The glass ocean walls it was easily 5.11a but since the opening moves were the only hard moves on the climb I would call it 5.10d. If you fall making the moves to the second bolt you can break your legs or ankles on the ledge you start on. The third bolt is missing you can posibly place a .5 camelot, but the run out is easy enough climbing.

By Scott H.
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 6, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I agree with MaryEllenMan, a stick clip could be useful for the second bolt. There is a runout further up the route, a longer sling could be used to clip one of the bolts from GrrAmp(left of this route) if you are concerned about protecting that part of the climb.