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Rage to Live 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Craig Smith 1987
Page Views: 943
Submitted By: Alex McIntyre on Feb 8, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Pete on RTL

Description 

This amazing line starts in the black streak left of Lessons in Yorkshire. At the second bolt, Rage traverses left 20 feet on good edges and cool moves to the start of the crux section, just left of a short crack visible higher up. An extremely technical sequence on some bad and thin holds leads to some powerful pulls once the crack is gained (several sequences are possible here). This crux is pretty much finished once the horizontal ripples are reached. The upper climbing is really fun and amazingly pumpy despite being a fair bit easier than the bottom 2/3's of the route. This is an absolutely stellar line that is closer to vertical than a lot of the harder Beaver Wall routes. A technical masterpiece.

An alternate start called Rage Direct begins 10 feet left with a semi-mandatory stick clipped first bolt. This adds a height-dependent crimpy V6 boulder problem to the start. It makes it harder, but how much I'm not sure as you still get a decent rest before the crux of Rage to Live is encountered.


Location 

Shares a start with Zschiesche, the black water streak left of Lessons, but moves left at the second bolt.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



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By Luke Bertelsen
Jan 29, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

Currently there are older DMM Mambas w/ quick links on the bolts. The runner on bolt 4 is slightly suspect. By no means is it the worst I have seen (Maple Canyon, UT), but there is really no reason to have anything suspect on a route getting enough traffic to have fixed draws on it.

By jbak
Feb 8, 2013

Alex... I'm glad you loved the route. But I gotta tell you, my memory of this route (15-20 yrs ago) is quite a bit different ! Didn't >>Brad<< Smith do the FA ?

By BSmith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
May 8, 2013

So after being asked it I had done the FA of Rage I thought I'd check to see. This doesn't clear it up at all. I'm pretty sure in retrospect that I did the FA of the Direct Rage. I wouldn't put much stock in my memory, however.

By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
May 22, 2013

I just checked my guidebook. SQL2 says Craig Smith did the FA of the traverse start in 1987 and Brad Smith did the FA of Rage Direct in 1988.

While I've heard of several repeats of this line before this last year, I haven't heard anything about previous repeats of Rage Direct. I'm surprised as the movement is really good and interesting, as long as you can reach the holds at the start.

By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 29, 2014

Luke, those are Peter Piek's project draws. The last set of draws he had up were stolen so he put up the Mambas with quicklinks to ensure that won't happen. They aren't permadraws and Pete will take them down when he sends. If you are worried about that runner I'd suggest talking to him about it.

By karatepete
From: tucson, AZ
Jan 30, 2014

Canada Eric mentioned there was a discussion about my DMM Mambas on the route. I was just on the proj Tues and the draws looked fine, even fell on bolt 4 (the long one). I'm heading back on Monday & i'll check it out again. Thanks for letting me know. Hopefully it'll go soon, thanks again.