Rage to Live  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  Craig Smith 1987 Submitted By:  Alex McIntyre on Feb 8, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This amazing line starts in the black streak left of Lessons in Yorkshire. At the second bolt, Rage traverses left 20 feet on good edges and cool moves to the start of the crux section, just left of a short crack visible higher up. An extremely technical sequence on some bad and thin holds leads to some powerful pulls once the crack is gained (several sequences are possible here). This crux is pretty much finished once the horizontal ripples are reached. The upper climbing is really fun and amazingly pumpy despite being a fair bit easier than the bottom 2/3's of the route. This is an absolutely stellar line that is closer to vertical than a lot of the harder Beaver Wall routes. A technical masterpiece.

An alternate start called Rage Direct begins 10 feet left with a semi-mandatory stick clipped first bolt. This adds a height-dependent crimpy V6 boulder problem to the start. It makes it harder, but how much I'm not sure as you still get a decent rest before the crux of Rage to Live is encountered.

Location 

Shares a start with Zschiesche, the black water streak left of Lessons, but moves left at the second bolt.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.