Rage to Live
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This amazing line starts in the black streak left of Lessons in Yorkshire. At the second bolt, Rage traverses left 20 feet on good edges and cool moves to the start of the crux section, just left of a short crack visible higher up. An extremely technical sequence on some bad and thin holds leads to some powerful pulls once the crack is gained (several sequences are possible here). This crux is pretty much finished once the horizontal ripples are reached. The upper climbing is really fun and amazingly pumpy despite being a fair bit easier than the bottom 2/3's of the route. This is an absolutely stellar line that is closer to vertical than a lot of the harder Beaver Wall routes. A technical masterpiece.
An alternate start called Rage Direct begins 10 feet left with a semi-mandatory stick clipped first bolt. This adds a height-dependent crimpy V6 boulder problem to the start. It makes it harder, but how much I'm not sure as you still get a decent rest before the crux of Rage to Live is encountered.
Shares a start with Zschiesche, the black water streak left of Lessons, but moves left at the second bolt.
8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Feb 8, 2013
Alex... I'm glad you loved the route. But I gotta tell you, my memory of this route (15-20 yrs ago) is quite a bit different ! Didn't >>Brad<< Smith do the FA ?
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
May 8, 2013
So after being asked it I had done the FA of Rage I thought I'd check to see. This doesn't clear it up at all. I'm pretty sure in retrospect that I did the FA of the Direct Rage. I wouldn't put much stock in my memory, however.
|By Alex McIntyre|
From: Tucson, AZ
May 22, 2013
I just checked my guidebook. SQL2 says Craig Smith did the FA of the traverse start in 1987 and Brad Smith did the FA of Rage Direct in 1988.
While I've heard of several repeats of this line before this last year, I haven't heard anything about previous repeats of Rage Direct. I'm surprised as the movement is really good and interesting, as long as you can reach the holds at the start.