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Radometer in the Red Zone 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Tod Anderson, Richard Wright, 1996.
Page Views: 1,602
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Aug 21, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: 1. Natural Selection, 11a/b.
2. The Nordwand, 11b/...

Description 

This is the fourth route from the right. Climb some slabby moves to a steep headwall, then pull on small crimps and layaways for 20 feet to the 2 bolt anchor.


Protection 

6 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Walt Wehner
Nov 5, 2001

Alan - you could very well be right. I've got a long wingspan and thus tend to sandbag on reachy vertical routes. Definitely a sustained series of very small holds.

By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Feb 3, 2002

I'll third the motion for the 11c. I remember scratching out the b in the llb/c grading as soon as I got home. Great sustained sequence on thin sharp crimps and a reachy, funky, mantel.

By Tod Anderson
Aug 9, 2002

Most people avoid the original, although somewhat contrived first crux by moving right just below the bulge then back left over it. The rating should probably stick with the way most people do the route & still follow the general line of bolts. Doing it direct is about 5.11d.

By Erik Durgin
Sep 14, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

I thought this was solid 11c and totally rad.

By Sam S
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Fun for sure, I sort of traversed left to right under the third bolt then back left for the crimpy crux and then the mantel which made for an awesome sequence, interesting moves but very sustained and difficult, I give it 11c/d probably.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

The only strike against this route is the sharpness of the crimpness. Otherwise it was very cool. The mantle is actually easy.

By robbie s
From: littleton
Sep 24, 2012

I sent this route today onsight, staying with the bolts the whole way...staying off the chalked flake just left of the bolt line on the slab part...and not doing any traverse. I have a negative 4" wing span, I'm 5'11" and did not see a reason to use a mantle move to gain the high crimp on the final moves in the crux sequence. There are good feet the whole way.... I thought it felt 11b ... but I have a funky climbing style.... Great climb all around... but the whole a,b,c,d, thing I don't understand, I know where it comes from, but some a's feel harder than the c's.... So, I wish it just go back to - and + ...but that's just me....