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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: B. Dodd & T. Bearman 1987
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on May 9, 2013
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Radioactive 10b (if you squint you can see a climb...


Excellent climbing on the slightly overhanging 5.10 wall. Several other routes and many variations follow the same terrain, but no worries: all are good, and all are similar in grade!

Start at some mossy ledges and scramble up through some massive juggy boulders. Use the right-hand of two similar cracks splitting the bulge, gaining a stance under an overhang.

Move left under the overhang (or go straight up for Radioactive Direct 10d, substantially harder), and eventually work right again to head straight over the line you began with.

Roaring Twenties 10b takes a similar line, but breaks left on the upper part (and uses the left-hand lower crack).

See Adirondack Rock for a detailed topo.


Left-hand side of the 5.10 wall.


Standard rack, no big stuff required.

Build a gear anchor at the top, and last man just breaks it down and 4th-classes over the slab to the trail at the top.

Can TR with a 70m; 60m stretches both belayer and climber...

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By Jim Lawyer
May 14, 2013

Locating the starts of the routes on the "5.10 Wall" is difficult, as the lower portion of the cliff is intimidating and nondescript.

First identify the "bulging ceiling" that horizontally breaks the cliff 40' up. Next, on the left side of the wall and below this ceiling, locate two steep, parallel cracks in white rock. This route climbs the right-hand of these cracks.

Double ropes (or a single rope with many long runners) help reduce rope drag.