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Radio Head offers one of the shortest approaches at Devil's Head, with routes ranging from 5.6-5.13. Approximately half of the routes require some gear placements, so bring at least a small rack of stoppers and cams through 4". Most routes require a 60m rope to lower off, with a few requiring a 70m rope. Tod Anderson's book "Rampart Range Rocks" is the best resource for route information. The crag faces primarily southwest, with most routes getting afternoon sun.
To get to Radio Head, continue along Rampart Range Rd past the turnoff for the campground, heading uphill on the now narrower road. After 0.7 miles you crest the ridge at the Radio Towers. Park here, or up the road a short ways, making sure not to block access to the towers.
36 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Radio Head:
Black Velvet 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Sunrise Slab 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Centrist 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Right of Center 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Giant Dihedral 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Tilt-a-Whirl 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Shimminy Cricket 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Freezer Burn 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
Lady Fingers 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
White Dwarf 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Man Hands 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Crandall Hammer Arete 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Refiner 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
The Bends 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Gigantor 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Tilt 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Super Nova 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Heat Stroke 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Shiny Face 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
My Left Foot 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For Radio Head
My Left Foot 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c CO : South Platte : ... : Radio Head
P1 - (90 feet, 5.11b) 11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Follow overlapping, left-leaning flakes with varied climbing. Must do classic! P2 - (110 feet, 5.13b) 17 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Some desperate moves on nearly perfect rock get you into a left-leaning crack, through a hueco, then transitioning into parallel crack/offsets (crux). There is an optional belay here, or if you've got the endurance, continue thru several 5.12 cruxes to the top. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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