The eye of every first-time visitor to Margalef is instantly drawn to the striking orange cliffband that towers above the crags of the valley below. This is Raco de les Espadelles, and its one of the best cliffs in the region. The rock is excellent, covered in beautiful colored streaks, and featuring some of the best tufa climbing at Margalef. There are over 50 routes here, ranging from 5.10 to 5.14c, with several open projects and potential for many more.
This crag is easy to see but harder to reach. Head Northeast out of Margalef on the T713 for about 1.5 Km. Turn right onto a paved road signed for "Embassement", passing under large power lines. Follow the paved road around the first hairpin, to a set of colorful dumpsters ~50 yds beyond. Turn left onto a good dirt road at the dumpsters. This road is very steep in spots, but generally good, & no problem for passenger cars in normal conditions. Wind up the road for what seems like too long, until the road gains a big plateau at a left hairpin turn. Park at the pullout at this hairpin. There is an abandoned stone shack ~50 yds South of the parking lot.
8 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Raco de les Espadelles
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Raco de les Espadelles:
"6a+" 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 50'
Perepunyetes 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 50'
Memoria Histerica 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 60'
Draculin 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 60'
La Gomorra 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 35'
El Sistema 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 75'
Featured Route For Raco de les Espadelles
El Sistema 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c International : Spain : ... : Raco de les Espadelles
El Sistema climbs a spectacular gray tufa streak, with the aid of the "juggy" pockets at the start of La Gomorra (to avoid the 8b+ direct start). This is not as bouldery as many routes at Margalef, requiring mostly good stamina. However, a good bit of finger strength is required for the strenuous crux traverse between the fourth & fifth bolts.Begin with La Gomorra's burly start to reach the big hole below the fourth bolt. Rest well, then charge up and right into the gray streak. Awesome text...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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