Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Raco de la Finestra

Select Route:
Action Man S 
Aeroplastica S 
Coraje al Forao S 
Entretres S 
Ktploptr S 
Laverint d'ombres S 
Lo Xispero S 
Magrana S 
Montgronyeta S 
Okemaka S 
Pitus i Flautes S 

Raco de la Finestra  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,750'
Location: 41.2755, 0.7678 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,497
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Finestra cliff with a few key routes marked.

Description 

"Finestra" is probably Margalef's best crag. With over 60 routes, from 5.11a to 5.14d (not to mention several open projects with proposed grades in the 5.15b-range) this crag has something for just about everyone. While famous for its unparalleled concentration of cutting edge routes, this cliff's high number of "moderates" are what keep the crowds coming back. This cliff has more than 10 high-quality 5.11's (including Magrana, one of the best routes at Margalef), around twenty 5.12s, and ten 5.13s.

The Finestra cliff is taller & more consistently angled than most other Margalef cliffs. The routes tend to be long & consistently steep, generally lacking the bulbous roofs & bulges found at other cliffs, making the climbing more endurance-oriented. Some of Margalef's best stone can be found here, highly pocketed, and with several of the more classic lines such as Montgronyeta featuring engaging tufa curtains.

The cliff is a large, semi-circular amphitheatre with a north-facing center. Some of the routes on either end get sun at various times, but generally this crag is shaded all day. There are a number of impresseive overhangs that stay dry in the rain, though the grades on these cliffs start at 5.13a and go up in a hurry.

Other must do routes include Okemaka, 5.11b, for the bolted crack enthusiast, Entretres, perhaps Margalef's best 5.12a, Antologica, 5.12d, with more tufa curtains, Aeroplastica, 5.13a, an excellent pocket line, Dando Brea, 5,13b, an ultra steep power problem, El Fustigador, 5.13c, a long, steep enduro line, Aitzol, a steep enduro line & Margalef's most popular 5.14b, and the long 45 degree overhang of Victimes del Futur, Margalef's first 5.14c.

Getting There 

From Margalef, follow the bridge East across the river towards the "Fonda Tres Pines" Hotel. Heads up for the tree that is literally in the middle of the road! Veer left after the tree, heading up a steep paved road signed for "Ermita Sant Salvador". Continue winding up this road, passing several crags on either side of the canyon. After ~1.8 KM, park at a fork in the road in any of the small pullouts. It looks like there might be a new parking lot going in here.

Follow a steep trail on the right (South) side of the road. Switchback up for ~3 minutes to arrive below a big orange, chossy wall with a gray slab above. Head right for Tenebres, and a few neglected Finestra routes. Otherwise head left, back into the woods for a short bit, to emerge below another orange, chossy-looking wall with a big gray slab above. A cliffbase trail continues left to the central & left sectors of Finestra.

Climbing Season



Weather station 25.9 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',4],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Raco de la Finestra:
Magrana   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Entretres   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Raco de la Finestra

Featured Route For Raco de la Finestra
Antonio Banderas makes long moves, low on Aeroplas...

Aeroplastica 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  Europe : Spain : ... : Raco de la Finestra
One of the steeper 13a's at Margalef, with big holds, and thus predictably popular. The 13a version ends at an anchor at a horizontal break ~50 feet up. The extension is 8a (5.13b). Although pitch one is relatively short, this route is on the entire way, and only offers a few poor shakes, culminating in a classic power-endurance sprint.Stick clip the first bolt, grab one good pocket (and one not so good) from the short cheater tower. Gun for the rail, catch your breath, then bust up on good ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Raco de la Finestra Slideshow Add Photo
A profile of the "Victimes del Futur" ca...
A profile of the "Victimes del Futur" ca...
Enjoying the steep slab of "Lo Xispero" ...
Enjoying the steep slab of "Lo Xispero" ...
Topo of the mid-left section of Finestra.  Not all...
Topo of the mid-left section of Finestra. Not all...
A pair of unknown Brits on "Garotina" (L...
A pair of unknown Brits on "Garotina" (L...

Comments on Raco de la Finestra Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -