Racking your cordelette.

Got it thanks!

yep, I'll have to post up a pic. You kinda do small butterflys about palm sized then wrap around the folds, then bring the final loop up and through to clip on a biner.

I reduce the size to about 16" loop, by doubling it up, tripling, etc, then with my fingers in both ends just start twisting it on itselfs. Then I combine the two ends around the biner, and run my hand down the twisted cordelette to tighten it up. It's harder to explain than do, but it is super fast, and keeps the cord nice and tight on itself, with minimal bulk.

Ian F. wrote:I reduce the size to about 16" loop, by doubling it up, tripling, etc, then with my fingers in both ends just start twisting it on itselfs. Then I combine the two ends around the biner, and run my hand down the twisted cordelette to tighten it up. It's harder to explain than do, but it is super fast, and keeps the cord nice and tight on itself, with minimal bulk.

me too. fast, easy.

EDIT: Except after tripling the loop, next step, I clip the biner in one end and propeller my finger in the other end, then bend the twisted bundle in half to clip into the biner. (Same as Ian, except I do the twisting with one end already clipped.)

Ian F. wrote:I reduce the size to about 16" loop, by doubling it up, tripling, etc, then with my fingers in both ends just start twisting it on itselfs. Then I combine the two ends around the biner, and run my hand down the twisted cordelette to tighten it up. It's harder to explain than do, but it is super fast, and keeps the cord nice and tight on itself, with minimal bulk.

This is how I do it also

I was shown to use my thumb and pinky like a boat cleat. Loop the knot over the thumb, make figure-8's around thumb and pinky, then a couple wraps around the middle and tuck the end through one of the "eyes". Clip that end on a biner. Makes a compact bundle.

Kathy

Ian F. wrote:I reduce the size to about 16" loop, by doubling it up, tripling, etc, then with my fingers in both ends just start twisting it on itselfs. Then I combine the two ends around the biner, and run my hand down the twisted cordelette to tighten it up. It's harder to explain than do, but it is super fast, and keeps the cord nice and tight on itself, with minimal bulk.

Same here. Ive played around with a coil as well, and also with doubling/tripling it and figure eighting the bunch, but the twisting method is my favorite.

One of the first things my 'trad mentor' showed me .. he learned it from a mountain guide.

For me, I double it over, double it over again, then tie it all into a figure-8. One extra twist keeps it short. It is fast and easy to do, comes out fast and easy, and is about the size of a 6" QD on my harness (rear loop) while climbing.

Always bring 2 when climbing. One for each end of the Hammock!

i tend to use a slightly long and fat cordlette. approx 9.2mm x 70m. it doesnt rack too well, but either end is tied to me and/or my partner using a double bowline or figure eight (alternating). great for equalizing anchors!

I agree with Tony Bubb. I just double it over a few times and tie an overhand or a figure eight. Very quick and easy.

I always put mine on a Yakima. I used to put it on a Thule, but I sold that one and replaced it with something domestic.

xtremst80 wrote:I just recently switched from a webolette to a 7mm cordelette. I am having some trouble keeping the cordelette wrapped tight on my rack. Anyone have any good tricks/tips for wrapping a cordelette?

I'm curious as to why you switched from a webolette to cordalette. I have one webolette and a couple cordalettes and I much prefer the webolette...

-Tristan

I ditched my cordolettes for a couple of super long dyneema slings. Cant untie to pass around stuff, but in all my years of climbing I never actually did that anyway. I double it over a couple of times then figure 8 it with an extra twist and its super light and compact and clean.

Justin
Joke. like roof rack... Yakima or Thule.
You were supposed to go WTF, and then go "OH"

Multipass... SUperior being.
I used to try a bunch of fancy crap to take up the links... Now I just double it up a couple time and figure eight it... You can then clip both sets of loops together onto your harness.
Don't waste time with anything fancy. Just get it on there and out of the way... or stash it on your Yakima.

Sam Lightner, Jr. wrote:Justin Joke. like roof rack... Yakima or Thule.

Justin Cantrall wrote:just for the record, I got it the first time (I have a Yak Rak)

Yakima? Thule? Whatta bunch of pretty-boy sport climbers! Rack your cordalette the trad way!


PS: As a longtime twisty racker, I think Justin et al just converted me; tying an overhand or figure 8 looks faster and simpler, and only a tiny bit less compact.

Justin Cantrall wrote: I usually just build the anchor with the climbing rope, unless we're not swinging leads or the next pitch is going to be a rope-stretcher. I like the versatility of it though, so to me, it's worth the weight to carry. It is good to have options.

I don't like building the anchor out of the rope. What if something happens and you want to escape a belay or bail quickly without undoing the anchor? An injury could become an even bigger problem if the anchor is the rope.

you'll have to re-rig it then.

How many times does someone actually need to escape the belay? not many; if any.

My point being, the chances of that occurring are not that great & then also to where you'll need to work on your partner, even less. It's good to know how to switch riggings and stay in a redundant system, but foregoing the rope as rigging in anticipation of a full-on medical situation is a bit much. You'll have time to make any adjustments as any medical evac is not going to be so speedy that having an anchored rig direct or having to switch from a harness/redirect is not critical.

Okay maybe 2 cases: your partner is getting asphyxiated by their gear sling or they clipped an artery. Even if you had a direct baseline on the rig, could you get down to them in time & do some good? Ya just never know. For a leader pick-off past 1/2 way -- I'll say; that'll be a tough one.

In addition to making for a quicker escape, anchoring with a cordalette, slings, or something other than the rope does a bunch of good things: (a) adds several feet of rope to the pitch; (b) is easier to equalize; (c) is easier for either (i.e. the "out of sequence") partner to lead the next pitch; and (d) if the anchor is taut against rock, saves wear and abrasion on the rope.