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Racking screws on a harness that doesnt take ice clips?
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By Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 1, 2012
P3 on Nutcracker.

Any suggestions? Ive seen it done different ways. I am not a fan of attaching ice clips with the plastic piece.


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By drmartindell
From Homer, Ak
Dec 2, 2012

petzl spirit bent gates. two of them, facilitate upwards of 8 screws or so between them. work great. key lock won't snag the hangers on the screws. love em.


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Dec 2, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

If screws are the only pro I'm bringing, or I'm otherwise not going to have a ton of shit on my harness, I'll clip them into their draws and use the same end of the draw to clip my gear loop. If I am going to have a ton of shit clipped into the loops, I'll use carabiners as ice clippers through the clipper holes in the harness, to save gear loop space.

I've known at least two people who lost screws on the plastic clippers.. I don't trust them any more.


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Dec 2, 2012


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By mtoensing
From Boulder
Dec 2, 2012
Props to my home state show

I never really used those clippers things. I thought it was a huge waste of $scrilla$ to essentially just buy a cheap plastic carabiner. Just get 2 or 3 large ovals for your screws.


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By Cor
Dec 2, 2012
black nasty

+1 on the spirit bent gates.

When I had a harness that did not have a sewn slot to hold the biners firmly, here is what I did.

Take the rubber that comes with an ice clipper, or maybe one of those rubber parts that goes on sport draws, or maybe a strong/small rubber band.

Use one of these to hold the biner tight to the gear loop. Basically thread the rubber through the biner, clip the biner to loop, then finish threading the rubber back to biner.

Now you have a biner that is hanging from the gear loop, gate facing out, and it is stuck in that position. no flopping around...

hope that helps, it worked well for me, and was easy to get screws off, and back on the setup.

Cheers.


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By Brian in SLC
Dec 2, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

I've used these yellow rigs for years:

carabiner ice screw carrier
carabiner ice screw carrier


Can't recall who made them (dead bird?) but I think I got them from MEC. Anyone know?


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By Harry Richardson
Dec 2, 2012

Correctly identified as made by Arcteryx...a pair used to come with one of their ice-specific harness years ago and was sold as a separate accessory for awhile...


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By BigM
Dec 2, 2012

This works really well!
frozentime.se/climbing/iceclip.html


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By Gunkiemike
Dec 2, 2012

Cor wrote:
+1 on the spirit bent gates. When I had a harness that did not have a sewn slot to hold the biners firmly, here is what I did. Take the rubber that comes with an ice clipper, or maybe one of those rubber parts that goes on sport draws, or maybe a strong/small rubber band. Use one of these to hold the biner tight to the gear loop. Basically thread the rubber through the biner, clip the biner to loop, then finish threading the rubber back to biner.


I use the heavy rubber bands that come on broccoli and asparagus. I use two for redundancy and secure the biner (a large wiregate, unspecified model from Wild Country) directly to the waist loop of my harness rather than the gear loops.


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By DannyUncanny
From Vancouver
Dec 3, 2012

Gunkiemike wrote:
I use the heavy rubber bands that come on broccoli and asparagus. I use two for redundancy and secure the biner (a large wiregate, unspecified model from Wild Country) directly to the waist loop of my harness rather than the gear loops.


Is the biner actually clipped to anything if those elastic bands break?


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Dec 3, 2012

I've got a couple of giant old bent gate biners that are fat enough to have clip all the way around the waist belt of a harness. You can get about half a dozen screws on it no problem. This thing was from probably the mid 1990s when the "big basket" craze of rope-end biners reached it's crescendo.

Probably still sitting in the box of ice gear in my garage. Why I haven't sold that crap since I moved to SoCal many years ago is a mystery.


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By Gunkiemike
Dec 3, 2012

DannyUncanny wrote:
Is the biner actually clipped to anything if those elastic bands break?


Sometimes. If I worry about it, as I always did when I used the rubber pieces from the BD ice clippers, then I back things up with a small loop of 2mm cord. I don't think the current crop of asparagus-banded biners are backed up though. nb- I check the rubber bands OFTEN.


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Dec 4, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

DannyUncanny wrote:
Is the biner actually clipped to anything if those elastic bands break?


The bands just hold it oriented and in place... the carabiner is still clipped to the loop


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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Dec 4, 2012
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior

Brian in SLC wrote:
I've used these yellow rigs for years: Can't recall who made them (dead bird?) but I think I got them from MEC. Anyone know?

Brian,
Where did you get those biners... They are perfect... I didn't realize BD made a wire gate version. (I forget what the biner is called) I have the bent solid gate version and they are awesome I can only imagine how well the wire gate version works...
Dallen


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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Dec 4, 2012
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior

Just Remembered Fins? Right...


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By JohnnyG
Dec 4, 2012

I use the plastic piece. ;-)

I have backed it with electrical tape. Holds all season.

I've climbed through some tight squeeze chimneys where the clipper got a little mangled, but the set up held.


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By Jon H
From Boulder
Dec 4, 2012
At the matching crux

Sunny-D wrote:
Just Remembered Fins? Right...


Yup, the BD Fin. I read that Carlos Buhler had broken one of them in a short, clean, low FF fall and they were then summarily discontinued. I subsequently spoke to a long time BD employee who said they were simply the very first hot forged biner and "discontinued" only because they made rapid improvements in the technology, not because of any failures or inadequacies, but I digress. They certainly are the PERFECT screw racking biner. I've got 4 of them that I use specifically for that purpose. Interestingly, I had never seen them in a wiregate until now, either. They were designed by Andrew McLean (original designer of the Camalot!) and he has pictures of them in silver and black solid gates on his website, but no image of a wiregate.

This is the rig I've set up to rack screws:



It's nothing more than 2 biners connected by plastic tubing (I used PEX, but anything will do) and zip ties. I went to this method after breaking a plastic ice clipper on a descent and losing a Cobra and 3 screws on the 3rd of 6 rappels. As an added bonus, now I have 4 extra full strength biners (I carry one doohickey on each side) in case I ever need them at only a ~40 gram penalty.

This is how it hangs on the harness:



The rigidity of the "backing" created by the plastic tubing makes it remarkably easy to pop screws in and out, way easier than even the plastic clippers by a long shot. The best readily available biner today for this purpose is probably the BD Hotwire.

It's essentially a DIY version of Simond's $45 aluminum ice clipper that still has the disadvantage of being for racking only, not full strength.


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By Brian in SLC
Dec 4, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Sunny-D wrote:
Brian, Where did you get those biners... They are perfect... I didn't realize BD made a wire gate version.


Yep, Fins. They, uhh, never commecially produced a wiregate version...nice for racking screws and they come off super fast.

I used standard Fins on the rope end of most of my screamers. Rope just jumps in, especially twins. Huge gate.


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By Brian in SLC
Dec 4, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Jon H wrote:
The best readily available biner today for this purpose is probably the BD Hotwire. It's essentially a DIY version of Simond's $45 aluminum ice clipper that still has the disadvantage of being for racking only, not full strength.


That's a really cool looking homemade racking rig!

DMM made a really large bent gate biner for awhile too. Nearly the size of a Fin. That'd work, but, I see on their website that they may be discontinued as well.


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