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Racking Doubles
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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
May 21, 2012

1Eric Rhicard wrote:
I doubt that wear is an issue by clipping another cam to the carabiner holding one cam.


Leeroy wrote:
You'd be wrong.


Don't be so quick to strike him down. I have had keys with steel rings on the same biner for almost 6 years with not much noticeable wear, way less than some of the biners that rope have only run through for a few months.


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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
May 21, 2012

If you put that much gear on your harness this will happen... Use a gear sling.

Too much gear on harness?  Use gear sling.
Too much gear on harness? Use gear sling.


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By Landon Miller
From Bend, OR
May 21, 2012

I prefer just to run it out and place less gear.


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By Chris D
From the couch
May 21, 2012
Sign near the Third Flatiron

Looking at the OPs photo, my first thought is, "how do you get anything on or off a gear loop with that much stuff on it?!"

My second thought is that'd be one tight-swami day.

Even just hanging there for a photo it looks like a cluster. Hanging on a route, trying to find the right piece and get it off of a gear loop that packed would be unmanageable. Even a sling with that much gear on it can be a pain.

If that was my rig and I took the wrong size piece off it by accident early on the pitch, I guess I'd just shrug my shoulders and drop it. How would you ever re-rack it? Ha!

+1 to using a sling. Makes things a lot more pleasant if you're swinging leads, too.


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By Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
May 21, 2012
Chomp. Summer climbing in RMNP.

For the record I just store the gear on those slings.


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
May 21, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Seems like it adds an extra step to me- but for what benefit? You have to first take both cams off your gear loop, unclip one from the racking biner, put the other one BACK ON your gear loop, place the one you kept, THEN extend it and clip in. As opposed to take one off, place it, extend it, clip it.

I guess I just don't see the benefit. To each his (or her) own though.


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
May 21, 2012

muttonface wrote:
Seems like it adds an extra step to me- but for what benefit? You have to first take both cams off your gear loop, unclip one from the racking biner, put the other one BACK ON your gear loop, place the one you kept, THEN extend it and clip in. As opposed to take one off, place it, extend it, clip it. I guess I just don't see the benefit. To each his (or her) own though.


dude try to follow along here. We arent talking about "racking biners". Did you even look at the pic? Its one cam clipped to another. You remove the lower cam just as if it was attached to your gear loop. This is not a hard concept why are you so confused mutton? Do ya need a diagram to figure out such a complex idea?


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
May 21, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

DexterRutecki wrote:
dude try to follow along here. We arent talking about "racking biners". Did you even look at the pic? Its one cam clipped to another. You remove the lower cam just as if it was attached to your gear loop. This is not a hard concept why are you so confused mutton? Do ya need a diagram to figure out such a complex idea?


Ah, yes. I see now. Thank you for pointing out my obvious error and complacent, half-ass initial viewing of the picture. A diagram would probably help, although your verbal explanation is quite succinct and sufficient. I thank you also for your clarification. Snide and chock-full of assholery as it may be, you are indeed correct. Please forgive my lack of attention to detail.

  • Edit: After further review, I don't think I'd use that method. Like others have stated, If carrying doubles, I'd rather just have one racked on each side to facilitate ease of retrieval with either hand. That, and it seems like a cluster. Again dorsey, thanks for pointing out my error. Your presence is an invaluable contribution. Keep up the good work.


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By mugsy
May 21, 2012

Kent Pease wrote:
I have a concern though that doubling up cams will accelerate wear on the sling of the upper cam.

I have the same concern. Does anyone rack like that regularly and notice extra wear on the slings?

I usually rack on my harness (even dbls) with color coded biners- c3s & metolius blue-orange on my left, camalots on my right. Trad draws, nuts, and other junk on back loops. I have a love/hate relationship with gear slings. Mostly hate.

I find that if I rack 1 set per side, I get confused at the top trying to figure out where I still have (X) piece when I need it. Doesn't help when you have a gold c3, gold metolius, and 2 gold c4s spread around all on gold biners..


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By Leeroy
May 21, 2012

mugsy wrote:
Doesn't help when you have a gold c3, gold metolius, and 2 gold c4s spread around all on gold biners..


And that's exactly why color coded racking biners are silly.

Look at the piece, not the biner.


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By Ryan N
From Lone Tree, Colorado
May 21, 2012
RJN

Tried the OP's way today in Joshua Tree. Didn't like it at all. Photo looks great, but in practice not so great. The problem was that it's now one extra step to place gear, and they seemed to get tangled up easily. As far as Trad draws went, I have a hard enough time keeping biners straight racking single. Racking double was a hassle. Only good thing was it freed up more space on harness, which made me think I needed more gear than normal with all that extra space. My two cents!


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By BurtMachlan
May 21, 2012

Ryan N wrote:
The problem was that it's now one extra step to place gear, and they seemed to get tangled up easily.


What is the extra step?


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By Mic Fairchild
From Boulder
May 21, 2012
kickin' on Broadway

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Slings and harness combo is my favorite.


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By Ryan N
From Lone Tree, Colorado
May 22, 2012
RJN

What??? The extra step is now you have to separate the two. Which in theory may not seem like an extra step, but the way the biner attaches it's more difficult than it sounds. Maybe I'm just a noob? I'm also used to racking soley on harness so I have specific spots that certain cams go that way when I'm in an akward stance I know where to grab. To each their own!


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By Elena Sera Jose
From colorado
May 22, 2012
bacon

Ryan N wrote:
What??? The extra step is now you have to separate the two. Which in theory may not seem like an extra step, but the way the biner attaches it's more difficult than it sounds. Maybe I'm just a noob? I'm also used to racking soley on harness so I have specific spots that certain cams go that way when I'm in an akward stance I know where to grab. To each their own!

+1 its a personal preference but doubling seems cumbersome I prefer a sling fir small yo medium stuff slings on side loops large cams cordilette and lockers on back


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By Leeroy
May 22, 2012

muttonface wrote:
Use periods. Better yet, write your comment in your native language and let us try to translate it. It would be easier than trying to decipher your butchery of the English language.


Or better yet, Mutton should stop feeding the idiot troll and Eleanor can just STFU.


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By Elena Sera Jose
From colorado
May 22, 2012
bacon

Mutton no need to be bitter
OK the desert climbing is pretty much done till fall. I still stand by what I said about my racking.


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By Stefanie Van Wychen
From Golden, CO
May 22, 2012
Caguama queen at Homero's in the Potrero

I also split the rack between both sides - and sometimes carry two different brands that cover a wider array of sizes - mainly on longer climbs that I am not familiar with.
I carry about three times that on some IC climbs - doesn't bother me at all.

I tried a gear sling early on, and racking multiple cams on one biner - neither worked well for me personally. Slings are nice on offwidths but they always get in the way of seeing my feet no matter how tight I make them - and the side slings ala the Metolius backpack didn't work well either.

My harness doesn't fall off because I have hips and a booty to hold it up - I guess I could see where this would be a problem with you scrawny folks. :) And having weight around my hips transfers the weight onto my legs, which I prefer over having the weight around my shoulders and chest.

It's a "to each his own" - but it's always nice to know your options.


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By steitz
From midcoast, maine
May 22, 2012

That's pretty neat. can't wait to try it out


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By Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
May 22, 2012
Me and my Fetish I guess.. ;)

Seems like allot of biners. I rack multiples on big ovals. I change it around depending on what I'm bringing up but for this rack I'd probably do this:

left
oval-1: #.3-1 bd c4
oval-2: #2-4 bd c4
oval-3: small nuts

right
oval-1: .3-1 bd c4
oval-2: 2-4 bd c4
oval-3: large nuts

I'd put all the cams on the high middle loops of my WC Syncro and the nuts as the last item on my rear loops. Works well for me. Also, I'm not a big stickler over having stuff in the exact same place racked the exact same way every time. If I climb with someone new, I just go with their system. But then again, I don't climb 5.12 trad so if I have to spend a few extra seconds finding something, it's not the end of the world.


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
May 22, 2012
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

mugsy wrote:
Does anyone rack like that regularly and notice extra wear on the slings?

no noticeable wear


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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
May 22, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.

Daryl Allan wrote:
Seems like allot of biners. I rack multiples on big ovals. I change it around depending on what I'm bringing up but for this rack I'd probably do this: left oval-1: #.3-1 bd c4 oval-2: #2-4 bd c4 oval-3: small nuts right oval-1: .3-1 bd c4 oval-2: 2-4 bd c4 oval-3: large nuts.


This is all well and good until you drop five of your cams at once.


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By Elena Sera Jose
From colorado
May 23, 2012
bacon

I'm just one thought of anybody actually climbs outside u know what im talking about when u have to wedge your body in cracks and corners, lean against stuff knee bar and body bar things....u gotto be able to swing that rack out of the way. No hips here so my harness falls off ....just saying...


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By slk
From Reno, NV
May 23, 2012
me

DexterRutecki wrote:
Learn how to put your harness on and that wont be a problem. Your harness is supposed to sit above your hips... the widest part of your pelvis, if its tight enough and the correct fit there is no way it is going to slide past your hips. So try not being a gumby and that might help.


Maybe you should go post on some hard man thread or at least try to be helpful with out the "turdish" overtones.


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