Racking Doubles

Anyone rack doubles this way? Saw it in a vid and thought I would try it next time I throw that much gear on my harness.

Doubles (slings and cams)

i do this regularly when i am carrying a lot of gear. racks cleanly and makes it quick on belay changeovers.

One of my main climbing partners does this often and he really digs it. However, I like to rack a set on each side of my harness. I do this so that I have a good shot at having the piece I need on the side that has the hand free to place the gear.

Vertical racking rocks for lugging up lots of gear -- it makes it a lot easier to fit a bunch of gear on limited gear loops space. I always do this when I'm aid climbing and carrying a monster rack. If you use color coded biners like the picture and rack in size order it makes finding the right piece mindless.

I use it and love it, honestly it's way easier to grab a biner that has it's minor axis front to back.

when i carry bookoos of gear, i like to rack cams like stoppers, works pretty well, especially the small ones.

on my doubles that arent the same company(my main rack is c4s and doubles are metolius) i'll rack the same sizes together, example, #1 c4 and #6 Powercam, that way if im climbing and know i need handsize, i just reach for that carabiner and have all my options ready to go. Since i extend all of my placements with slings anyway, not having carabiners on every piece saves weight, as well as clutter on my harness

Coeus wrote:One of my main climbing partners does this often and he really digs it. However, I like to rack a set on each side of my harness. I do this so that I have a good shot at having the piece I need on the side that has the hand free to place the gear.

+1

I do something similar, but different. I like having a couple free biners available at the end of a pitch, so gear gets grouped by type/size and then clipped to a big OP biner on the gear loop. Sometimes I split things to each side, other times not. Works particularly well with draws, where I'll have 1set up with the big biner and 3 or 4 racked into that. Cuts down on the harness clutter big time.

Sweet. Thx for the replies. Gonna try it out tonight at Lumpy.

I like to rack my purple and green together green and red together and yellow and blue Camalots together. I put one on each side of the harness. That way if I misjudge the crack I have what I need. Smaller stuff I rack like stoppers on a sling. Nice to have a sling to hang stuff on if you get into a tight chimney or offwidth.

That looks insane to me. If I need that much gear i use a gear sling. My hops could never deal with that load...... And why????

A gear sling lets you spread out all that hardwear. It also means you don't have to worry about the weight pulling your harness (and your pants) down. I most often put the clanks and jangles on a sling and arrange the 'draws and runners on my harness loops. It's worked for a lotta years and a lotta climbs.

I can't imagine that much gear hanging off my ass. What ever happened to a sling or two?

I agree. + 1 for a good old gear sling. When I'm not using a gear sling I prefer to rack two or even three cams to a a single binder. I picked this up from my friend Mr. Sheridan (tip my hat to you buddy).

Doubling up cams is a good technique. My standard is to use a gear sling and I occasionally double up my cams when the rack gets big. The problems with a large rack, even on a sling, are that: 1) the biners extend too far in front and behind your side thereby getting in the way and making the back ones inaccessible, and 2) the biners are pinched making them hard to remove.

I have a concern though that doubling up cams will accelerate wear on the sling of the upper cam.

I hate the weight of an entire rack around my neck which is why I put .75 through 4 inch on my harness. It also keeps all that stuff from getting in you line of sight to your feet on lower angle stuff.

I doubt that wear is an issue by clipping another cam to the carabiner holding one cam.

Another reason I don't clip the same size cams together is that if you drop them you are out of that size.

1Eric Rhicard wrote:Another reason I don't clip the same size cams together is that if you drop them you are out of that size.

I tried the method of clipping offset sizes together, with the logic that if it wasn't one size it was the other.

BUT I just couldn't dig on the 2 cams per biner. Yes it frees up room on the harness and yep super light. Maybe I didn't give it a chance but it seemed like I was fumbling with gear more than I wanted to.

Maybe I'll try it again on a flatiron climb where I don't have alot of placements anyways.

I may have used it aiding on big walls, but for free climbing, I prefer to have my doubles on the other side of my harness so that it's easier to place with either hand.

flynn wrote:A gear sling lets you spread out all that hardwear. It also means you don't have to worry about the weight pulling your harness (and your pants) down.

Learn how to put your harness on and that wont be a problem. Your harness is supposed to sit above your hips... the widest part of your pelvis, if its tight enough and the correct fit there is no way it is going to slide past your hips. So try not being a gumby and that might help.

Also its funny to see how impressionable all you people are here. Everyone ripped on the gear slings in the "gear sling" thread yet everyone here seems to love them all of a sudden.

DexterRutecki wrote:Everyone ripped on the gear slings in the "gear sling" thread yet everyone here seems to love them all of a sudden.

Haha i seem to remember a thread on how much racking doubles sucks too.

I <3 gear slings.

That pic is too bulk IMHO....if u gotta double up, use double gear sling or your harness. The Metolius sling w the extra gear loop(removable) is awesome too.

Above could b good for aid/big wall.

+1 on wear issue