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May 17, 2012
Chomp. Summer climbing in RMNP.
Anyone rack doubles this way? Saw it in a vid and thought I would try it next time I throw that much gear on my harness.
Doubles (slings and cams)
Doubles (slings and cams)
Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 15, 2011
152 points
May 17, 2012
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
i do this regularly when i am carrying a lot of gear. racks cleanly and makes it quick on belay changeovers. Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,729 points
May 17, 2012
I am a neandertal.
One of my main climbing partners does this often and he really digs it. However, I like to rack a set on each side of my harness. I do this so that I have a good shot at having the piece I need on the side that has the hand free to place the gear. Coeus
From a botched genetics experiment
Joined Apr 24, 2008
46 points
May 17, 2012
Vertical racking rocks for lugging up lots of gear -- it makes it a lot easier to fit a bunch of gear on limited gear loops space. I always do this when I'm aid climbing and carrying a monster rack. If you use color coded biners like the picture and rack in size order it makes finding the right piece mindless. Steve86
Joined Jul 17, 2011
10 points
May 17, 2012
I use it and love it, honestly it's way easier to grab a biner that has it's minor axis front to back. NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
May 17, 2012
Kilroy
when i carry bookoos of gear, i like to rack cams like stoppers, works pretty well, especially the small ones.

on my doubles that arent the same company(my main rack is c4s and doubles are metolius) i'll rack the same sizes together, example, #1 c4 and #6 Powercam, that way if im climbing and know i need handsize, i just reach for that carabiner and have all my options ready to go. Since i extend all of my placements with slings anyway, not having carabiners on every piece saves weight, as well as clutter on my harness
Kilroywashere!
From Harrisonburg, Virginia
Joined Oct 27, 2009
287 points
May 17, 2012
Birds and Beards
Coeus wrote:
One of my main climbing partners does this often and he really digs it. However, I like to rack a set on each side of my harness. I do this so that I have a good shot at having the piece I need on the side that has the hand free to place the gear.


+1
kevin deweese
From Oakland, Ca
Joined Jan 14, 2007
264 points
May 17, 2012
I do something similar, but different. I like having a couple free biners available at the end of a pitch, so gear gets grouped by type/size and then clipped to a big OP biner on the gear loop. Sometimes I split things to each side, other times not. Works particularly well with draws, where I'll have 1set up with the big biner and 3 or 4 racked into that. Cuts down on the harness clutter big time. Aric Datesman
Joined Sep 16, 2008
145 points
May 18, 2012
Chomp. Summer climbing in RMNP.
Sweet. Thx for the replies. Gonna try it out tonight at Lumpy. Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 15, 2011
152 points
May 18, 2012
I like to rack my purple and green together green and red together and yellow and blue Camalots together. I put one on each side of the harness. That way if I misjudge the crack I have what I need. Smaller stuff I rack like stoppers on a sling. Nice to have a sling to hang stuff on if you get into a tight chimney or offwidth. 1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,638 points
May 19, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
That looks insane to me. If I need that much gear i use a gear sling. My hops could never deal with that load...... And why???? Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
422 points
May 19, 2012
A gear sling lets you spread out all that hardwear. It also means you don't have to worry about the weight pulling your harness (and your pants) down. I most often put the clanks and jangles on a sling and arrange the 'draws and runners on my harness loops. It's worked for a lotta years and a lotta climbs. flynn
Joined Feb 9, 2002
86 points
May 19, 2012
Slick Rock put in
I can't imagine that much gear hanging off my ass. What ever happened to a sling or two? Allen Hill
From FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Joined Jun 12, 2004
1,803 points
May 19, 2012
I agree. + 1 for a good old gear sling. When I'm not using a gear sling I prefer to rack two or even three cams to a a single binder. I picked this up from my friend Mr. Sheridan (tip my hat to you buddy). Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Joined Jun 1, 2009
642 points
May 19, 2012
Doubling up cams is a good technique. My standard is to use a gear sling and I occasionally double up my cams when the rack gets big. The problems with a large rack, even on a sling, are that: 1) the biners extend too far in front and behind your side thereby getting in the way and making the back ones inaccessible, and 2) the biners are pinched making them hard to remove.

I have a concern though that doubling up cams will accelerate wear on the sling of the upper cam.
Kent Pease
From Littleton, Colorado
Joined Feb 13, 2006
118 points
May 19, 2012
I hate the weight of an entire rack around my neck which is why I put .75 through 4 inch on my harness. It also keeps all that stuff from getting in you line of sight to your feet on lower angle stuff.

I doubt that wear is an issue by clipping another cam to the carabiner holding one cam.

Another reason I don't clip the same size cams together is that if you drop them you are out of that size.
1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,638 points
May 19, 2012
Bocan
1Eric Rhicard wrote:
Another reason I don't clip the same size cams together is that if you drop them you are out of that size.


I tried the method of clipping offset sizes together, with the logic that if it wasn't one size it was the other.

BUT I just couldn't dig on the 2 cams per biner. Yes it frees up room on the harness and yep super light. Maybe I didn't give it a chance but it seemed like I was fumbling with gear more than I wanted to.

Maybe I'll try it again on a flatiron climb where I don't have alot of placements anyways.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
May 19, 2012
I may have used it aiding on big walls, but for free climbing, I prefer to have my doubles on the other side of my harness so that it's easier to place with either hand. John D
Joined Nov 24, 2010
21 points
May 19, 2012
flynn wrote:
A gear sling lets you spread out all that hardwear. It also means you don't have to worry about the weight pulling your harness (and your pants) down.


Learn how to put your harness on and that wont be a problem. Your harness is supposed to sit above your hips... the widest part of your pelvis, if its tight enough and the correct fit there is no way it is going to slide past your hips. So try not being a gumby and that might help.

Also its funny to see how impressionable all you people are here. Everyone ripped on the gear slings in the "gear sling" thread yet everyone here seems to love them all of a sudden.
DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Joined Mar 23, 2012
3 points
May 19, 2012
Bocan
DexterRutecki wrote:
Everyone ripped on the gear slings in the "gear sling" thread yet everyone here seems to love them all of a sudden.


Haha i seem to remember a thread on how much racking doubles sucks too.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
May 19, 2012
Thunder
I <3 gear slings.

That pic is too bulk IMHO....if u gotta double up, use double gear sling or your harness. The Metolius sling w the extra gear loop(removable) is awesome too.

Above could b good for aid/big wall.

+1 on wear issue
Shane Neal
From Colorado Springs, CO.
Joined Mar 6, 2002
273 points
May 19, 2012
1Eric Rhicard wrote:
I doubt that wear is an issue by clipping another cam to the carabiner holding one cam.


You'd be wrong.
Leeroy
Joined Feb 4, 2012
3 points
May 19, 2012
I do it. it saves a lot of space and it's great when your buddy has different cams you can hang similar sizes together. As far as dropping them I never unclip both of them at the same time even when transferring at the belay– one at a time as if it were clipped to your harness. generationfourth
From Irvine, CA
Joined Mar 2, 2008
16 points
May 19, 2012
Note that there is a difference between racking 2 cams per biner, and linking two cams each with its own biner. The OP picture clearly shows the latter, linked approach.

1Eric Rhicard wrote:
Another reason I don't clip the same size cams together is that if you drop them you are out of that size.

Scott McMahon wrote:
I tried the method of clipping offset sizes together, with the logic that if it wasn't one size it was the other. BUT I just couldn't dig on the 2 cams per biner.

With the linked doubling approach, the noted concerns are not relevant since you would remove the lower cam from your rack first and independently from the upper cam.

For the other option of racking multiple cams on a single biner; yes I do that also, especially with small cams, which is similar to racking several nuts on a single biner. Although it works well for me, it irritates my partners when we share a rack and pass it off between pitches.
Kent Pease
From Littleton, Colorado
Joined Feb 13, 2006
118 points
May 19, 2012
Chomp. Summer climbing in RMNP.
Used the system on my harness for doubles yesterday. Loved it. Less clutter and it actually felt more ergonomic to unclip the first cam or sling from a biner than it was uncippling from my harness.

Also was nice to look down and more easily be able to see what sizes I still had doubles in while leading. Not that spotting two pieces racked side by side is hard, it just seemed even quicker this way.
Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 15, 2011
152 points
May 21, 2012
me on my redpoint
I always rack that way and have been doing so for years. I only rack double of cams this way. I don't do it with the draws as in the picture. I also always carry my draws on the harness and I don't like this system on the harness. When I am carrying a gear sling it is def the best way. Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points


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