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Rack for Sale 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Paul Wonsavage 3/96
Page Views: 1,964
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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BETA PHOTO: Rack for Sale starts up the orange flake to the le...

Description 

A fun balancy route that gets its name from the fact that this would protect fine with gear but you can sell the rack cause they bolted it.

Climb 10 feet of moderate climbing to the first roof. Layback past this and get warmed up for the crux. Another roof must be past in much the same way but you will find it very off balance due to not having feet right where you want them. The holds are good so just go for it. Once you commit it feels 5.7 again. Easier moves get you to the top. Enjoy.

Location 

Just right of the 2 5.10s. Look for the nice corner with a crack in it passing 2 roofs.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchor


Photos of Rack for Sale Slideshow Add Photo
nick warmin up on rack for sale
nick warmin up on rack for sale
passin the first roof of rack for sale
passin the first roof of rack for sale
nick navigating the second roof aka the crux
nick navigating the second roof aka the crux
great warm up route
great warm up route
Andy pullin the crux move
Andy pullin the crux move

Comments on Rack for Sale Add Comment
Show which comments
By BTodd
May 26, 2008

A lot of fun. My friend is still new to leading and led it and liked it a lot. I followed it and thought it was a lot more fun than the 10s on the other side of it.
By Michael John Gray
From: Queensbury, NY
Mar 18, 2012

I understand this is Rumney and bolting is accepted. Although, I find it disgusting and wrong to bolt a crack anywhere. -IMO
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 18, 2012

Oh for God's sake! You find a route, clean it, and lead it any old way you wish. Have you lead this route on trad gear or are you just pontificating and quality grading from afar?
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

In a place like Rumney this SHOULD be bolted. Rumney is a sport climbing area and this serves as on of the best 5.7 in Rumney. It would be a shame for a climb of this quality to be reclaimed by the lichen and moss because it sat dormant because it didn't get bolted. This is Rumney , we don't get a lot of trad climbing. You can always do what many of have done lead it on gear skipping the bolts, it makes a cool photo. Cheers.

I also don't think it is fair that you rated it the bomb this climb is way better than that. Regardless if its bolted or not...
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Mar 20, 2012

I was happy to have the opportunity to safely get to the top of this when I first started to climb in 2008, thankful to clip each bolt along my ascent. It made me excited to climb it placing gear and a year later was my first trad climb... barefoot. :) Great route.
By Michael John Gray
From: Queensbury, NY
Apr 18, 2012

A friend pointed this route out to me in a way that set me off. A comment was made about climbing a bolted crack in my honor. I took it the wrong way. I did not realize the circumstances. They led it and said it was great too. Generally I am sensitive to bolts on cracks. I guess the joke was on me. Sounds like a good climb and glad its bolted. Thanks for reminding me why I need to not make any comments on forums or anything. My bad! LOL Send on! Cheers friends.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 21, 2013

I led this and the 5.8 crack by the Road on gear today. I'm super brand new to the world of trad and I just want to throw in my recommendation for this awesome route! My placements were MUCH more confidence inspiring than on 5.8 Crack. This is a great beginner's trad lead if you are comfortable at the grade.
By Catherine Rioux
From: Sherbrooke, QC
Aug 17, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This climb is really fun if you are an inexperienced trad leader (like me...)
Protection is plentiful and the climbing is easier than 5.7.