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Rack for IC and Red Rocks
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Nov 2, 2012
after OS soloing the first flat iron, direct route
Me and a buddy are gonna be road tripping in a couple months. first to indian creek for about a week, then bishop for a week, and red rocks for about two. our rack consists of
.3 & .4 x3
.5-3 x4
4 x1. (all c4s)
plus two sets of nuts and one pink tricam
we won't be climbing anything harder than 5.10. so do we have enough? probably should plan on getting some smaller stuff i imagine? thanks for any (constructive) input, which would even include: why waste yoru time there, go here!
Dylan Dwyer
From Sailboat, South of the Equator
Joined May 20, 2011
113 points
Nov 2, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Dylan Dwyer wrote:
our rack consists of .3 & .4 x3 .5-3 x4 4 x1. (all c4s)


Four sets...hmmm...some Indian Creek stuff might be ok. Long hand cracks might get a bit interesting if you're not solid at the grade.

Over kill for most Red Rocks stuff. Doubles for most routes there.

Edit to add: You won't need any smaller stuff for Indian Creek if you're not climbing harder than 5.10!

160 feet of hand crack with four cams that fit well, and a few that don't, could get spicy. You might be a bit limited there for a week's worth of climbing, but, there are usually other folks around to combo up racks on. Take care clipping, hanging, back cleaning...if you blow it...that wouldn't be good.

Have a great road trip!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Nov 2, 2012
Cold day at Smug's
Yup, IMO fine for RR. Thin for IC. csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
214 points
Nov 2, 2012
remember a good amount of alpine draws for red rock if you plan on getting on multi-pitch. routes can wander a bit. you should check out pine creek when you're in bishop. great granite sport and trad! Clayton Knudson
From El Portal, CA
Joined Oct 16, 2011
17 points
Nov 2, 2012
after OS soloing the first flat iron, direct route
so if we don't meet up with other friends in IC, make friends. sounds good! as this is my first trip focusing on trad instead of sport, we don't know all the good places to go, and i love small crags as well (not that you can tell from this itinerary). anywhere else worth stopping at on our loop back to missouri? i love desert sandstone but will pass through arizona and new mexico. a couple i have looked at are mill creek and kane springs Dylan Dwyer
From Sailboat, South of the Equator
Joined May 20, 2011
113 points
Nov 2, 2012
you may want at least singles in the two sizes smaller than .3 for Red Rock, or a healthy stopper selection to supplement. I rarely place the truly tiny cams, but the Red and Green C3 get quite a bit of use out here. John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,395 points
Nov 2, 2012
Paradise Forks, outside of Flagstaff, Az is awesome and not as crowded as the Creek. 5.10 at the Creek tends to be big hands. You will not need much small pro at that grade. The pitches tend to be long so 6-8 pieces of similar gear is not unusual. Castle Valley is superb. The North Chimney being the easiest way to the top, I think. There is some good climbing in NM, but not much on par with the Forks, the Creek, or Castle Valley. The advantage is there are far fewer crowds and often perfect weather. Eric Whitbeck
Joined Mar 27, 2006
319 points
Nov 2, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
Plenty for IC for your grade. No problem. Some longer test pieces may be a challenge but you will be fine on most tens. Get some small stuff for RRC. Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
422 points
Nov 6, 2012
after OS soloing the first flat iron, direct route
awesome. thanks for the info. and we're probably gonna end up with some more gear before we leave, maybe a couple more hand sized pieces and i just picked up a set of TCUs =) Dylan Dwyer
From Sailboat, South of the Equator
Joined May 20, 2011
113 points


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