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Racist Haircut 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: W. Anglin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: Orphaned on Aug 12, 2011

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Description 

Great face climbing on a steep wall with 2 distinct cruxes. A #0.75 Camalot protects the easy approach boulder problem. After gaining the ledge, clip the first bolt and launch into an awesome V7/8 boulder problem with powerful moves on small edges to a rest. Easier, but thoughtful climbing brings you to the V4 top crux and then the anchors.

These are tough moves for 5.13b, but the rest in the middle makes the route as a whole very managable. It is definitely a boulderer's route.

Protection 

#0.75 Camalot (optional), 6 bolts to anchor.


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