Follow the black streak, cranking up on shallow pockets and/or reachy moves between them, for the first 4 bolts (crux). Then two good rest stances with more featured climbing between them, followed by a bolt-protected hand crack to the anchor.
This climb is on a black streak on the right side of a clean wall whose base is higher than most of the other routes (E Pluribus.. is also on this wall, to the left).
From a climb like Bananarama, go uphill and left, passing Earth Monster and 3 other climbs, to the highest wall with routes on it, just left of a left-facing corner.
8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor
|Comments on Racist Fantasy
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 30, 2009
We replaced the disintegrating webbing anchor with links+biners, but chains would definitely be a further improvement.