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Sunshine Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bukatude T 
Buttress Chimney T 
Drain Pipe, The T 
First Pitch T 
Gates of Delirium T 
Golden Oldies T 
Hesitation T 
Hesitation Direct T 
Iron Cross T 
Ishi T 
Last of the Mohicans T 
Moondance T 
New Generation T 
Nirvana T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Race With The Devil T 
Red Rain T 
Sidewinder T 
Stretch, The T 
Sundance T 
Sundance Arete T 
Sundike T 
Valhalla T 
Voodoo Child T 

Race With The Devil 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro, 1979
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Catching a freebie, P-1 Race With The Devil c. 198...


Good thin climbing with a serious runout on the first pitch.

Pitch 1: Do hard thin moves (11d) to make a difficult clip of the single bolt on the pitch. Pass the bolt and continue on the potential ground fall runout (10b) to No Go Ledge.

Pitch 2: From the left end of No Go Ledge climb past bolts (11b) to gain a prominent "fin". At the fin there are two choices, both runout. Either continue up the fin to the last bolt on the second pitch of Valhalla (5.7) or go up and right to the Hesitation belay (5.8).

Pitch 3: Depending on which belay was chosen, do either the 3rd pitch of Valhalla or the second pitch of Hesitation.


Between Buttress Chimney and the first pitch of New Generation.


Bolts, thin to 2".

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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 12, 2008

Stiff pulls and a good set-up for some of the harder routes at Suicide. The second pitch is pretty cool too.
By John Long
Jul 14, 2011

It might only be rated 5.11d but you better be a solid 5.12 face climber if you plan on on-sighting this baby on the lead.
By Alex Shainman
4 days ago

Hi, I have a FA history question on this route. How was the first pitch bolt drilled? I'm 6' tall and with my left foot on the only good foothold (after busting out the hard crux start) that "stance" seemed way too low to hand drill that bolt. There is a creaky hold, left of the bolt, which could've been hooked. How'd he do dat?

Might as well ask this general question here...
How many routes at Suicide were bolted on aid (hooks).

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